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UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



Textile Record Hand-Book No. 2. 



PRACTICE 



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Finishing 



WOOLENS AND WORSTEDS 



BY 



F. H.GREENE 





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PUBLISHED BY THE TEXTILE RECORD 

425 WALNUT STREET, PHILADELPHIA. PA. 



Dyeing, Drying and Finishing 

Machinery for Woolens 

and Worsteds. 

H, W, BUTTERWORTH k SONS 

PHILADELPHIA, PA. 



MANUFACTURE AS SPECIALTIES: 

SINGEING MACHINES, (Gas) Blanche's Patent. 

SINGEING MACHINES, (Plate). 

WASHING MACHINES, Dolly and Open. 

CRABBING MACHINES, Single, Double and Treble. 

JIGGERS. 

PADDING MACHINES. 

DYE KETTLES, with or without Small Engines attached. 

BLUEING MACHINES. 

DRYING MACHINES, with Horizontal and Vertical Frames, and 

with Copper and Tinned Iron Cylinders. 
SOAPING OR WETTING MACHINES. 

FINISHING MACHINES, with any number of Squeeze Rolls. 
TENTERING MACHINES, Clamp and Pin Chain. 
STEAMING MACHINES. 
STEAMING ROLLS. 
EXPANSION ROLLS. 
DYE-HOUSE TRUCKS AND WAGONS. 
MEASURING AND LAPPING MACHINES. 



Practice in Finishing 



The Art of Finishing 

Woolens and Worsteds 

in all its details 



A Complete Hand-book for the 
Finishing Room 



By FRED. H. GREENE 

Master Finisher y^S^FiSg^^ 

. NOV 26 1886/?) ' 



Published by THE TEXTILE RECORD 

425 Walnut Street, Philadelphia, Pa. 

1886 




-^ 



THE contents of this hand-book were origi- 
nally written for and published in the 
columns of The Textile Record of 
Philadelphia. This magazine contains, in each 
issue, more original matter of practical value 
to the worker in textiles than any other simi- 
lar publication in the world. It has late and 
fresh information for the operator in every 
department of the woolen and cotton mill, the 
dye and bleach house, and the knitting mill. 
The price is only $3.00 a year. 



This volume is the second of a series of 
practical hand-books issued by the publisher of 
The Textile Record. 



« 



j^V 



COPYRIGHTED 1886. 
BY CHARLES HEBER CLARK. 




FRED H. GREENE. 

Fred. H. Greene, the author of this treatise, was 
born in Pascoag, R. I., April 9, 1858. While he was but 
a child, his parents moved to Putnam, Conn., then to 
Alderbrook, Madison County, N. Y., where his father, 
J. C. Greene, was superintendent for some ten years. 
Afterwards he was one of the firm of G. B. Mowrey, Son 
& Co. Here, at the age of fifteen, he was first employed 
in the office as assistant bookkeeper, and also to assist 



about the mill. After attending school later on for two 
years at Hamilton, N. Y., he was employed in the finish- 
ing-room to run a shear, which he continued to do for 
about a year. 

After a brief experience at farming, the family moved 
to Killingly, Conn., where he was with his father three 
years in the finishing-room, then one year in the weaving 
and designing rooms, under Mr. Benjamin Cogswell, of 
the Sabin L. Sayles Company. He was then about two 
years wet finisher for the Putnam Woolen Company, Put- 
nam, Conn. He was next in the employ of the Worcester 
Woolen Company, Worcester, Mass., remaining there 
nearly three years, until the failure of the company ; while 
there he was unfortunate enough to mutilate the right 
hand in a gear on a double cylinder rotary gig, but, with 
good nursing, managed to save most of the hand. Jan. 
i, 1885, he accepted a position with the Berkshire 
Woolen Company at Great Barrington, Mass., where at 
the present time he has charge of the finishing. 

Mr. Greene has made the art of finishing woolen and 
worsted goods a study. He has not only considered the 
methods of producing certain effects, but the reasons for 
those methods — the principles which lie at the bottom of 
the various processes. This includes, of course, intimate 
familiarity with the nature ancl construction of the wool 
fibre and close acquaintance with the practical details of 
those branches of chemistry used in the finishing room 
He has not been satisfied simply to know how, but has 
always sought also to ascertain why, and the results of 
his researches and his experiments are embodied in this 
hand book, now offered to the public. 

Editor of The Textile Record. 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 



Page. 

Portrait of author, and sketch of his life 3 



CHAPTER I. 

BURLING. 

The right kind of burlers. — The burling tables. — Re- 
moving knots. — Treatment of fancy cassimeres. 
— Methods of payment. — Proper methods of 
inspecting. — Qualifications of a good sewer . . 7 

CHAPTER II. 

FULLING. 

Difficulty in giving exact directions. — Objects aimed 
at. — Examples. — Sewing the pieces. — Putting in 
the mill. — Soaps and oils. — Suggestions as to 
time. — Fulling fancy cassimeres — Experiments 
with soaps. — Rolling or roping the goods . . 14 

CHAPTER III. 

COCKLES — FLOCK ING. 

Causes of cockles. — How to prevent them. — Strength 
of alkalies. — Fair alkalies must be used. — Vari- 
ous methods of flocking. — Dry flocking. — Rule 
for flocking. — Heavy flocking. — Soap and al- 
kali. — Points about alkali. — Scouring before full- 
ing 25 

CHAPTER IV. 

GIGGING. 

Purposes of gigging. — New and old gigs. — All-wool 
cassimeres.— Various styles of finish and methods 
of producing them. — Fancy colors. — Goods with 
a twist. — Tender goods 38 

5 



CHAPTER V. 

DRYING. Page. 

Drying machines or tenter-bars. — The best methods 
of drying worsteds and woolens. — Practical hints. 
— Troubles with flocks 50 

CHAPTER VI. 

SHEARING. 

Back-burling — The shears. — Don't tinker at the 
shears. — Difficulties. — Arranging the shears. — 
Grinding, etc. — Oiling the swab frequently. — 
Refusing to cut. — Shearing the goods. — 
Uneven shearing 55 

CHAPTER VII. 

CHINCHILLA FINISHING. 

Peculiarities of the chinchilla finish. — Methods of 
operation. — The chinchilla machine. — Setting 
the machine. — Rubbers and followers 69 

CHAPTER VIII. 

INSPECTING AND PRESSING. 

Inspecting the fabric. — Specking or fine burling. — 
Sewing or fine drawing. — Pressing the goods. — 
Differences in pressing. — Inspection. — The 
perch. — Shading with sample. — Finishing- 
room book and how to keep it 75 

CHAPTER IX. 

WHY GOODS DO NOT FINISH ALIKE. 

Variations in the filling. — Oils used upon the stock. — 
Twist in the yarns. — Wrong shades in the dye- 
house. — Differences in fulling. — Variations in 
the gigging and shearing 85 

CHAPTER X. 

SOME PRACTICAL RECIPES AND FORMULAS. 

To find the contents of a tank. — To figure speed. — 
To remove bur-dye crock. — To test woolen 
goods 95 



THE ART OF FINISHING 
WOOLENS AND WORSTEDS, 



CHAPTER I. 

BURLING. 

The right kind of burlers. — The burling tables. 
— Removing knots.— Treatment of fancy cassi- 
meres. — Methods of payment.— Proper methods 
of inspecting. — Qualifications of a good sewer. 

Burlers. — As a usual thing, the poorest class 
of employees are placed at burling, inasmuch as it 
is generally supposed that any one can burl a 
piece of goods. Many also have an idea that 
whatever is left undone in the burling and sewing 
can easily be remedied after the fabric is finished. 
This is surely a mistake. Too much care can- 
not be taken at this point of the work in fixing 
every place that needs attention before the goods 
go to the fulling mills. 

The burling tables.— In beginning the work, 
have the tables or burling boards covered with 
zinc, so that a perfectly smooth surface can be 
obtained to draw the cloth over, and that every 



small bunch or knot may easily be discovered 
by the burler. On broad or J- pieces, it is better 
to have two burlers at a table, although more 
work can be obtained, in proportion, with one, 
providing' the person is capable of handling it 
alone. Every knot, slug, bunch, or runner (filling 
drawn in on the side) should be removed, care 
being taken not to injure the regular threads, as 
this only makes extra work for the sewers, who 
will usually find plenty of business to sew in 
properly from the looms (unavoidable imperfec- 
tions). 

Removing knots.— There are several methods 
of removing the knots from the goods, and much 
depends upon the class, weave, length of time 
they full, or if they are put up, or shrunk length- 
wise or not, in order to prevent imperfections 
that will show after they are finished. At the 
same time, it all comes under a general rule, 
and only care and attention can best determine 
which way is best to produce satisfactory results. 
The matter, however, surely should not be left to 
the judgment of the operative. 

A corkscrew weave.— On a corkscrew weave, 
be it either woolen or worsted, or worsteds of 
any weave, commence by first burling the back, 
raising all of the knots and being careful not to 
draw the thread out so far as to make it tighter 
than the others. Remove all that is possible on 
8 



the face or midway between back and face, in this 
manner, clipping them off with a pair of scissors 
halfway in the knot, so that it will stand a slight 
strain before giving way. This will prevent (to 
some extent) the ends pulling apart when the 
goods pass through the machines and receive 
more or less stretching, which they all do. After 
all have been removed that can be taken out in 
this way, those that remain must be similarly 
dealt with when the goods are looked over on 
the face — using the same precaution as before. 

Fancy Cassimeres.— On fancy cassimeres that 
full a considerable length of time, the knot may 
be removed on either side by pulling up the ends 
and breaking off with the burling-irons. But just 
as much care and attention should be given in 
this case as in others, especially on hair lines, 
which are sure to show every little imperfection 
of the threads. The knots on these should be 
pulled up and left on for the shears to cut off. 
If not, they are liable to pull apart, and every 
one will have to be sewed by the fine drawers 
after they are finished. 

Practical suggestions.— If a piece of goods is 
put up or shrunk lengthways, say from two to 
three inches to the yard, it will help greatly to 
make them perfect. But on any class of goods 
the burlers should not be allowed to pull off the 
knots with a dull pair of burling-irons ; and on 



most classes of fabrics, it is better to use the 
scissors in connection with the irons. 

In small mills, it is practicable to teach the 
burlers to remove the filling drawn in on the 
sides, and also the bunches or soft filling, or pieces 
of waste, that may have been left in. But, in 
large mills, where from ten to thirty have to be 
employed, it is almost impossible to do this and 
have it done properly. It is no small affair to 
pull out filling that is drawn in for five or six 
inches, and none but those that have had expe- 
rience can do it without making the place imper- 
fect. The soft bunches should be picked out, a 
small piece at a time, so as not to injure the 
regular threads. 

Methods of payment.— In regard to a system 
of payment for this work, the results in quantity 
and, possibly, quality, are much better when a 
stated price per piece is paid. At the same time, 
something depends upon the class of goods, and 
the length they are made. A fair and practical 
system should be followed, so that the employees 
may have an interest in their work. 

I have always used the following success- 
fully, although very likely there are other methods 
that may be employed with fully as much suc- 
cess. On fancy cassimeres, when the pieces were 
brought in from the weave-room, I had them 
nicely piled up, so that when the burlers took 
10 



one to burl they took it from the top of the 
pile, taking their chances of a hard or easy burl- 
ing piece. I paid forty cents for each piece, or 
twenty cents to each burler for good work. If 
they did not do it well the first time, it was re- 
turned to them to reburl. If then not properly 
done, I paid them nothing for the piece. Al- 
though this rarely happened, there would be an 
average of four pieces per day on the usual work 
which I had. I have had very poor and hard 
burling pieces, for which I have paid as high as 
eighty cents per piece. They would not average 
over two pieces per day. Each burler had a 
number, which was placed in chalk upon the 
piece ; also each burler had a page upon a book, 
in which was placed the number and style of each 
piece burled. These were taken each night and 
put on the time book to the credit of the 
burlers. 

Inspecting. — The next operation in a large mill 
is to have a perch conveniently high, and one or 
two (preferably two) inspectors to look the goods 
over. They should look at them carefully both 
back and face, and remove all that the burlers 
have left. These should be taught to pull out 
the runners and difficult places in the goods. 
At the same time, if too much of this appears, it 
is best to send the pieces back to the weave-room, 
and let those that have charge of the work there 
ii 



try their skill. This may put a stop to some of 
the imperfections. 

As the goods are being inspected, all threads 
out, misspicks and bad places should be marked 
with chalk for the sewers, that they may readily 
see them and spend their time sewing, instead of 
hunting after imperfections. After this is care- 
fully done make a memorandum of each piece, 
and pass to the sewers. 

Sewing.— In order to get the best results 
possible in mending or sewing a piece of goods, 
the sewer should thoroughly understand weaving, 
so that on difficult patterns, if they have the 
weaving and drawing-in draft, they can readily 
comprehend how each thread should be sewed. 
Not that it is strictly necessary for a sewer to be 
a weaver, for I have seen and known of many 
that did not know how to change a shuttle on a 
loom. 

On fancy cassimeres, it is essential that the 
sewer should understand the colors and have a 
good eye for imitation, that she may take the 
adjoining pattern for reference as to the weave, 
the colors, etc., thereby making a nearly perfect 
work on a difficult damaged place. This can 
only be accomplished by experience and close 
attention to this part of the work. On double 
weaves, or goods that have a backing thread, an 
out on the back, either filling or warp, will 

12 



usually show when finished, and it will be nearly 
impossible to make these right in any other place. 
Hair lines should be sewed carefully, leaving the 
ends out, say, a quarter or half an inch, so that 
they will not draw apart, and have a space at 
each end of the thread sewed in blank or imperfect. 
On worsted goods this is the most important 
part of the whole work, and everything that can 
possibly be fixed or mended, should be done here. 
After they are sewed, scour them, and, if piece- 
dyed, again look them over, to be sure they are 
properly done. Again make a memorandum of 
the pieces. Then, after numbering by sewing 
with cotton or woolen yarn, the number, style, 
yards, and weight, they are ready to be tacked 
for the fulling mills. 



I! 



CHAPTER II. 

FULLING. 

Difficulty in giving exact directions — Objects 
aimed at — Examples — Sewing the p i eces — Putting 
in the mill — Soaps and oils — Suggestions as to 
time — Fulling fancy cassimeres — Experiments 
with soaps — Rolling or roping of the goods. 

Difficulties.— It is likely that there is not a 
department in the whole mill that is so difficult 
to write about as the finishing-room. Whereas 
every process of manufacture requires men of 
good judgment to conduct it, much more depends 
upon wise discretion in this room than in the 
others; and especially is this true of fulling, 
scouring and gigging. Of all these, fulling is the 
most difficult subject to write upon. You may 
take to-day a rule to govern the fulling of a 
certain style of goods, and a month later the 
same style may work differently. I know of a 
mill, or, rather, two mills, owned by the same 
company, where the sorting of the wool and the 
dyeing and finishing are done at one place. The 
goods had to be fulled separately, and they did 
not work alike — I mean the same styles, made 
exactly in the same way, excepting that there 
were different carding, spinning, and weaving. 

14 



In order to give any definite rule for fulling a 
piece of goods, it would be necessary to commence 
in the wool-room and find out the kind of stock 
used ; then the coloring and oiling of the stock • 
then to get a correct account of the cotton or 
shoddy that was mixed, also the weave ; and by 
that time a man ought to be a first-class superin- 
tendent, instead of a finisher. I have spoken of 
these points, and of points before the cloth reaches 
the finishing-room, to show how difficult it is to 
give any general rule, and also to show what a 
finisher has to contend with outside of his room. 

I once heard a superintendent of a large mill 
remark that he did not believe it made any differ- 
ence with the finishing what kind of oils were 
used on the stock. That man has since learned 
a little, and has changed his mind. Finishers 
have had to work pretty close for the last two or 
three years, as buyers have been so critical and 
fastidious, especially in regard to shades ; and it 
has been almost impossible for many to obtain 
what was required. One great trouble with 
finishers is that they get the selling samples out 
nicely and then fail to bring the goods out as 
well. There are several points that should be 
remembered in regard to this. Usually, when 
new samples are being made, the stock is all 
fresh. What I mean is, that it has not been ly- 
ing around the mill any length of time, and it 

i5 



works better, we think. We will improve our 
colors a little, and so we reduce our soaps. 
Next we gig a little slower, and put on a few 
extras, perhaps, and a few extra runs on the shears. 
When our goods come around, we have not got 
the time for extras. We need a little stronger 
soap, because the stock has been lying around, 
and the grease does not start so well. This is 
where many make a serious mistake. 

Objects aimed at. — Now, I propose to show, or 
to try to show, as plainly as possible, some of 
the methods and some of the means of overcom- 
ing difficulties in fulling. I wish to dwell upon 
the difference in oils, soaps and alkalies, and upon 
flocking, shrinking, excessive time and heat, in 
fulling fancy cassimeres, medium and fine goods, 
cotton warps, or union cassimeres, flannels, etc., 
and to show how different weaves afe liable to 
affect the fulling. Could I illustrate with sample 
to show what we have gained in the fulling mills, 
a much better idea could be given. 

The purpose of fulling— An example.— The pur- 
pose of fulling a piece of goods is to shrink and 
felt together the fibers and threads that compose 
it. We will take for our first illustration a piece 
of all-wool cassimere, XX Ohio wool, spun about 
4 to ^y 2 run, with about 3400 ends in the warp, 
50 picks, 72 inches, on the loom, with a cassimere 
weave. The goods weigh from 18 to 19 ounces 
16 



off the loom. The finish-weight wanted is 16 to 
1 6]/ 2 ounces. We do not care to flock them 
much, if any. We will say they shrink or lose 
20 per cent, in finishing. This leaves us 80 per 
cent.; and 80 per cent, of 18 ounces would be 
14.4 ounces. Calling the piece 36 yards long, 
we should have as many ounces in the piece as 
36 times 14.4, which are 5 1 8.4 ounces; and as 16 
ounces represent 1 yard or 36 inches of cloth, there 
would be as many inches to the yard left, after 
the 20 per cent, loss, as 16 is contained in 518.4 
ounces, which are 32.4 inches. And the differ- 
ence between 36 and 32.4 inches leaves us 3.6 
inches, which we must shrink each yard, in order 
to make up the loss by the finishing process. 

Sewing together.— We first prepare the piece 
by sewing the selvages together with the face 
on the inside, keeping them thus by tacking 
or sewing together with cotton twine, or old 
double-and-twist yarn that may be useless else- 
where. Even when the goods are not flocked, 
it is much better to tack them, as they will full 
more even. The sides then are the same thick- 
ness as the middle, thereby receiving the same 
pressure. The soaps cannot strike on the face 
more quickly in one place than in another. 
The face will not chafe or rub against the rolls 
or sides of the mills, and if the fabric be soaped 
properly, there should be no trouble in regard 



to stains or spots where color is gone, or un- 
even felting, so far as this part is concerned. 

Putting in the mill.— We now run the pieces 
into the mill and see that the ends are sewed 
nicely together, having a f- piece on each side 
of the mill. Commence putting on the soap 
slowly and carefully until the pieces are thor- 
oughly and evenly wet down. After they have 
run about ten minutes, examine them and see 
if they are properly soaped. They should be 
moist enough so that, by wringing, a little soap 
and grease will start out, or by taking the piece 
and placing it over the fingers, the thumbnail, 
making an upward motion, will be covered with 
grease and soap. 

We then let down the traps, or, rather, the 
clapper (so-called), putting several weights upon 
the rods, and let the goods full an hour or more. 
Then pull out the pieces and see what progress 
has been made, having before marked off a yard 
on the end of the piece with a piece of cotton 
twine. If they are coming up in width faster 
than lengthwise, add more weights ; and if they 
are shrinking too fast, take off some of the 
weights. Try to have them come up together 
as nearly as possible, as they are liable to stay 
where you shrink them. They do not stretch 
out so much going over the other machinery. 
After the fuller has done a few pieces, he should 



be able easily to control that part of the opera- 
tion. 

Soaps and oils.— About the soaps used for 
the goods we will speak later on. Much de- 
pends upon the kind of oils used in preparing 
the stock, and also the kind of soaps used make 
more or less difference. Usually where red-lard 
oil is used, six ounces of any first-class fulling 
soap, and two ounces of good soda ash, at the 
most, to the gallon, should be sufficient to start 
the grease and full even, and at the same time not 
destroy any of the colors, providing proper atten- 
tion is paid to heat and excessive time. 

Suggestions as to time.— The piece of goods 
made up, as I have before mentioned, should 
not full over three or three and a half 
hours. This time could be reduced if the mills 
were shut ,up close and the pieces allowed to 
heat ; but this will not do. As many colors are 
spoiled by being heated, as by excessive alkalies. 
Many colors, in fact, stand the alkali best. It 
is always hardest to full the first sets, as 
the mills get cooled off through the night, and 
it is quite necessary first to get the pieces warm 
before the processes of fulling and felting com- 
mence. Of course, it is impossible to have the 
pieces cooler than the temperature of the room ; 
but care should be taken not to get them too 
warm. I have seen pieces of a like style, 

19 



started at the same time, in the same kind of 
mills, where perhaps one mill would full, or even 
one piece in the same mill would full, from 
half to an hour longer than others. An inex- 
perienced person would find it impossible to 
tell why this was ; but on investigation we would 
find that on one side of the mill, or at the back of 
the mill, there was a draught from a window 
which was keeping the pieces cooler, preventing 
a quick operation of the fulling. 

Now, these differences in heat, time, alkalies, 
shrinking both in width and length, must make 
a difference in the shading of the goods when 
finished ; and it is only by long practice and a 
good system that these difficulties can be over- 
come. 

I want my goods fulled even enough so 
that when I put four pieces on a rotary gig I 
shall have them all gigged alike. I do not want 
to gig awhile, take off two of them and give the 
other two more work. When I do this I am not 
working them all alike. I have hardly ever been 
obliged to do it, providing I had four of a like 
style. 

Fulling fancy cassimeres.— Long fulling is being 
discontinued by many on fancy cassimeres. The 
place to make a piece of goods is on the loom. 
They have to make worsteds there. They do 
not depend on the fulling mills for a good, solid 



piece of cloth. My experience has been varied 
in regard to this matter of fulling, and I have 
found that I have always been most success- 
ful when the goods were made on the loom 
instead of in the fulling mill ; and in order to do 
this, the following system will be found bene- 
ficial : 

Trial with samples.— Most mills make pattern- 
loom samples from two to five yards long and 
y A yard wide. I sew this upon a full piece and 
run it in the fulling mill as long as I think neces- 
sary — say from two to three hours. I then gig 
and finish it, comparing it with whatever effect in 
finish we may want. If it be all right, I make a 
note of every detail ; and do the same with all 
of the pattern-loom samples. Then, when the 
rack or selling samples come along, they are 
usually about 6 yards each f width, marked in 
orders. I keep each order until I get enough to 
make a full-length piece — say 36 yards. If I can 
get two, all the better, as that makes a mill full. 
I full them precisely the same as I did the pattern- 
loom samples, which came out all right. If I 
marked in my notes for any change, I make it 
now. If the selling samples come out too wide, 
then alter them at the loom. I full strictly on 
time, but always look out that my soaps and 
temperature are the same ; that each mill is set 
up with the same friction, pressure, etc.; also that 



the pieces are treated the same in soaping, shrink- 
ing, and that they are not pulled out on the floor 
and allowed to cool off while the fuller may be 
measuring others, or mending a belt, or attending 
to anything else. I will guarantee that if this 
method be followed, you will be able to gig four 
pieces of a like style together, and that there will 
be no trouble with different shades in this direc- 
tion. It makes no difference whether you full a 
piece one hour, or two, or three, providing all 
are treated alike. 

Possible difficulties.— Of course, there are 
many troubles that will arise. We will suppose 
that all is going well, and that the superintendent 
does not deem it necessary to inform us that he 
has made a change in his oils, or that he has 
worked into the stock some dirty waste, he sup- 
posing that if there is any trouble, the finisher is 
wide awake enough to discover the difficulty and 
smart enough to overcome it. Very likely he 
will ; but not before he gets several greasy pieces, 
or some with an off shade, at the least. 

Experiments with soaps.— Then again, a new 
soap must be tried. Perhaps it can be bought 
a little cheaper, or some other inducements are 
offered. Again we are liable to be off the track. 
Now, this is all wrong. I do not care whose 
soap you use. We all have a choice about such 
things. When you find a good soap, stick to it. 

22 



Buy of makers that can give you the same goods 
that were bought a year previous, and those that 
will give 1 6 ounces for a pound. You cannot 
afford always to be experimenting. If you are 
honest and upright in your business, and work 
with the superintendent instead of against him, 
let him know just how such things go. Do not 
think you know it all, and be afraid that some 
one else will learn something. When trouble 
comes, pull together, and you will come out all 
right. 

Rolling or roping of the goods.— Another trouble 
in fulling is that of the pieces rolling or roping 
up in the mills. I have found this difficulty 
more in the old styles of mills than in the im- 
proved ones. I had at one time a class of hair- 
lines that it was impossible to keep from doing 
this. They had to be flocked, and shrunk about 
4 inches to the yard. If I flocked them dry, 
they fulled so long that they were tender. If I 
flocked after they were wet down, they would be 
so badly twisted up that the flocks only took on 
where the piece was exposed, and the sides which 
were rolled up inside would be thin and light 
Not much felt and not any flocks could get to 
them, they were rolled so tight, leaving the 
middle all exposed to catch all the flocks and 
felt. I tried everything I could think of to pre- 
vent this. I had them taken out and all un- 
23 



twisted and straightened ; but in less than five 
minutes they would be as bad as ever. 

Then I began in- another direction to find the 
cause of the trouble. Having had some two 
years' experience in the weave and designing- 
room, I dissected a piece of the goods, and found 
that it was woven one pick on the face and one 
on the back. The backing filling was spun 
coarser than the face, so in reality the picks were 
in firmer on the back than the face ; and the face 
of the piece fulled or shrunk faster than the back, 
which made them roll up. This was actually so, 
and the designer could not dodge it. Neither 
could I in the fulling mills. 

When this trouble is caused by the mills, you 
will usually find that the rolls are very much out 
of true, and should be taken out, put into a lathe 
and turned down. If the top and bottom rolls 
are geared together, be sure that they are both 
turned the same size, or you will get damaged 
goods. 



24 



CHAPTER III. 

COCKLES : FLOCKING. 

Causes of cockles— How to prevent them — 
Strength of alkalies — Fair alkalies must be 
used — Various methods op flocking — Dry 
flocking — Rule for flocking — Heavy flock- 
ing; — Soap and alkali — Points about alkali — 
Scouring before fulling. 

Causes of Cockles.— Cockles — another enemy 
with which we have to deal in finishing — may 
be made elsewhere than in the fulling mill, 
but they may also be made in the fulling mill. 
Uneven soaping will do it. Having the pieces 
run too dry, or too weak a soap, will also make 
them ; for where the soap goes on directly, the 
grease will start; but the parts that have to de- 
pend upon soap, by absorbing from the more moist 
places, will not get enough to start the grease ; 
therefore the piece fulls uneven. I have at times 
been obliged to use as much as 4 ounces of 
soda ash to the gallon before I could full them 
even. 

Then, again, the soap is used just on the 
line, we will say. A lot of filling gets mixed 
up ; some may have been lying around for a 
year; with the same oil, or perhaps a different 

25 



one, it will make cockles, as the new stock will 
start first, and perhaps the soap is not strong 
enough to start the other at all. 

I will give a few experiments in the use of 
different oils. I cannot give the makers' names, 
but woulcl say that the soap was used in the pro- 
portion of 7 ounces of soap and 2} ounces of 
soda ash to the gallon of water. 

Experiments. — Piece A had one brand of red- 
lard oil. It fulled 2f hours. The grease did 
not start, and it fulled uneven. 

Piece B had a different brand of red-lard oil. 
It fulled 2f hours. The grease started thick and 
muddy, but the goods fulled uneven. 

Piece C had a mineral oil. It fulled 2f 
hours. The grease started well, and everything 
worked well. It fulled even, and it handled 
good throughout the works. 

Piece D had a saponified mineral oil. It 
fulled 2 § hours. The grease started fairly, though 
not as good as C, but it fulled even. 

Again, these same oils were tried in a neu- 
tral soap, 6 ounces to the gallon of water. 

A gummed up, fulled $y 2 hours, and had 
holes burst through it similar to knife-cuts. 

B gummed up badly. It fulled 5^ hours, 
fulled hard, and had the same kind of holes. 

C worked well, kept moist all the time, 
fulled 3*/£ hours, and fulled easily and free from 
holes. 

26 



D worked fairly, but dried up at the last. 
It fulled 3 % hours. Did not work as well as C, 
but was free from holes. 

In regard to using red-lard oil, I do not 
wish to have it understood that there is no oil of 
this kind that can be used successfully. Many 
poor red-lard oils have been put upon the market, 
and they have caused manufacturers much trou- 
ble, but there are good brands that work all right. 
I have met with success with red-lard oil and 
again I have failed to accomplish good results. 

Strength of alkalies.— Next I will give illustra- 
tions of the different strengths of alkali, and the 
time in the mills, to show what effect there is 
on the colors of silks and wool : 

A. Two pieces, 20 yards in each ; 6 ounces 
of soap ; 2 ounces soda ash to the gallon. Fulled 
4 hours ; 56 inches wide; shrank 4 inches to 
yard ; 72 inches on the loom. 

B. Two pieces, 35 yards in each ; 6 ounces 
of soap ; 2 ounces of soda ash to the gallon. 
Fulled 3 hours ; 58 inches wide ; 3 inches shrink- 
age ; 72 inches on loom. 

C. Two pieces, 35 yards in each ; 7 ounces 
of soap ; 1 Yi ounces of soda ash to the gallon. 
Fulled 6^ hours ; 56 inches ; shrinkage 3 inches; 
72 inches on loom. 

D. Two pieces 35 yards in each; 7 ounces 
of soap ; 1 ounce of soda ash to the gallon. 

27 



Fulled 7 hours ; 56 inches wide ; shrinkage 3 
inches ; 72 inches on loom. A little uneven and 
inclined to be cockly. 

Fair alkalies must be used.— These tests show 
that a fair alkali must be used in order to full 
quick and even. Those that fulled the longest,, 
and had the least alkali, were not as good as A 
and B. B was just a trifle better for color, but 
not so good a piece, for it was not up to width. 
These pieces were all of the same style, and the 
oil used was a mineral oil, with Crown soap. 
But I have found by experience that better re- 
sults have been obtained, with the least amount 
of alkali named, by using a prime white-lard oil. 

Various methods of flocking".— Now, in regard to 
flocking, there are various ways in which to per- 
form this operation. It depends considerably 
upon how much weight has to be made up by 
flocking; also upon how long the pieces are full- 
ing, and what is the condition of the flocks. I 
have used, on fine goods, all clean shear and gig- 
flocks, taking a half shear, the other half gig, and 
grinding them fine, then mixing 50 pounds of 
these with 25 pounds of uncut shear-flocks. They 
do not sift out of the goods as much as by using 
all cut flocks. The staple being longer, it felts 
with a nap on the back and helps to retain the 
fine ones. 

28 



Dry flocking.— Dry-flocking is detrimental to 
quick fulling, although where 3 or 4 ounces have 
to be made up in flocks, it is almost impossible to 
get them heavy enough without so doing. Then, 
again, the flocks can be put on more evenly. 
The pieces do not flatten down so much as when 
wet, and if run for 15 or 20 minutes, every part 
of them is liable to be covered. 



Rule for flocking. — As for a rule for flocking, 
I would say : Try a piece ; give it so many 
ounces to the yard — perhaps part dry and the 
rest of them after they have been wet down — and 
run for an hour. If you get it right, make a rule 
by this trial. For instance : The piece weighs 26 
ounces. Take 30 ounces for a standard. Find 
the difference between the two, which is 4 ounces. 
Multiply the number of yards in the piece by 4 
ounces and divide by 16 ounces, and this will give 
the number of pounds to the piece. If the next 
weighs only 25 ounces, then, of course, we need 
more flocks ; but by finding the difference each 
time, especially when there is much variation in 
the weight or yards, we form a system by which 
each gets a proportionate amount each time, and 
at the same time the operator must adapt his 
method to the goods, the machinery and the 
flocks he may have to use, and be governed 
accordingly. 

29 



Example in light-weight goods.— I will give an 
example of flocking in the case of a piece of light- 
weight goods, cotton weave. They fulled hard, 
and weighed but 6 r 5 Q ounces off the loom. Fin- 
ish-weight wanted, 6 t 5 q- to 7 ounces. If I flocked 
dry, they would full all day; so I let them run 
until they were within two inches of being up to 
the required width. Then I put the flocks to 
them, about 6 ounces to the yard, and got them 
out in 4 hours, and up to weight. There were 
more or less waste flocks from the mills, but 
these we dried and ground over. It took nearly 
twice as many this way as it would have done 
had they been flocked dry, and a third more than 
if I had put them on, the first thing, after wetting 
them down with the soap. 

Various goods flocked.— Seme Scotch goods 
which I once had, I flocked just as soon as they 
were soaped. They weighed 1 o ounces off of the 
loom. Finish-weight wanted, 13 ounces. I put 
on about 10 ounces to the yard ; f width. They 
fulled y/ 2 hours, and came out plenty heavy 
enough. It was much easier to get the weight 
of these than that of some Meltons that were in 
the works at the same time. They weighed one 
ounce more off the loom. Finish-weight wanted 
was the same. They fulled 3 hours, and were 
flocked the same ; but, inasmuch as they required 
more gigging, it was not so easy to get the weight. 

30 



Flocking some union cassimeres that weighed 23 
ounces off the loom, finish-weight 26^ ounces, I 
put on 1 2 ounces dry, ran them an hour after 
wetting down, and put on 4 ounces more. Then, 
an hour later, I again put on 4 ounces more. 
The only guide we could have on the goods was 
to tell by the feeling. If we thought they were 
not heavy enough after putting on 20 ounces to 
the yard, we added more, until we arrived at 
the right point. 

Always have the same grade of flocks, if 
possible, and always have the pieces in the same 
condition when flocked. If you do not, it will 
be almost impossible to get them even in weight. 

Heavy flocking— Where goods have to be 
heavily flocked, it is a good idea not to remove 
all the waste of the previous set of pieces, so that 
this waste may help to fill up the corners and 
crevices of the fulling mills. This will effect a 
saving of quite 40 per cent, of the new flocks. I 
have long pursued this plan and I find that I can 
actually make such a saving every time. 

Soap and alkali.— Next, soap and alkali per- 
form an important part in fulling, and it is very 
essential that they should be uniform in quality 
and strength. Many use the alkali-tester, and 
try each tank of soap; but, as I never have been 
able to purchase one that did not require the test 
to be made at 6o° temperature, and as I have 



never been able to do this with my fulling soap, 
I should have got just as good a test by sticking 
it in a tank of mud. With soap having body 
enough for fulling at 6o°, I could make it stand 
1° or4o°, as I chose. As I have said before, pur- 
chase your soap of a reliable company that will 
always give an even article. I have used, I think, 
every make of soap in the United* States, and 
there are many good ones, and many in which 
there is no material difference. I first find out 
how much my soap-tanks hold by squaring the 
diameter or multiplying the diameter by the 
diameter in inches. Then multiply by the depth 
in inches ; then by .0034 ; point off the decimal 
in the product, which will give you the gallons. 
In making my soap, I boil just enough to dissolve 
it thoroughly. A tallow-chip soap will need 
boiling from 4 to 5 hours ; but an ordinary soap 
needs but about 2 T / 2 hours, stirring well while 
boiling. Then add the alkali, which it is best 
to dissolve in a separate barrel or tank, to prevent 
any hard substances from getting into the soap. 
Then fill up with cold water, and stir occasion- 
ally while filling. Let this remain until perfectly 
cool. 

Curdling Soap. — If the soap curdles after being 
properly cooked or boiled, see if the hard soap 
is all right. If it is not it will usually look 
streaked, and the ingredients will not be properly 

32 



mixed. It is wholly unnecessary for me to say 
more in regard to the strength of soap to use in 
the fulling mills. I have given examples of 
different strengths. Use it as light as possible ; 
at the same time start the grease well. 

Points about alkalies.— If in buying alkali it is 
impossible to get the same brand, take one pound 
of soda ash with a quart of water, dissolve, and 
see what it stands. If you wish, each new lot 
can be tried in the same way. 

In regard to the different kinds of alkalies, 
I would say that I have used pure alkali, sal 
soda, salt, etc., but A No. i soda ash is good 
enough for me. Many say that sal soda, being 
a milder alkali, does not make the goods so harsh. 
There. are other places in the finishing-room to 
make the pieces harsh besides the fulling mills. 
I have taken, when a large quantity of alkali was 
used, sal soda, but did it because I had a quan- 
tity on hand — as much as for making the goods 
feel soft. It takes about 2% ounces of sal soda 
to stand the test of I ounce of soda ash. 

Thin liquor for scouring soap.— For a scouring 
soap I prefer a thin liquor. I have used the same 
as I did for fulling, and was successful. I usu- 
ally make up a tank, say, of 200 gallons. Use 
about 75 pounds of some good scouring soap 
and 50 to 62 y 2 pounds of soda ash. Then re- 
duce it to whatever strength is necessary by 

33 



taking it out into a barrel. Then fill up with 
water, perhaps one-half soap and one-half water, 
or 12 soap and 6 water — whatever is needed. 
In scouring woolens, I usually put plenty of 
liquor on, but use it as weak as possible. To 4 
pieces, put on a barrel of liquor made by redu- 
cing the above one-half soap and one-half water. 
I would run these 20 minutes in soap. Then 
let on a little lukewarm water — enough to thin 
the soap somewhat. Run 5 minutes ; then open 
the gates to the washer and let on a little more 
warm water. When they have drained off pretty 
well, give them a little more warm water. Then 
rinse 45 minutes. Where the pieces have been 
very dirty, I have first rinsed them off in warm 
water, then soaped them as before, and taken the 
above-mentioned time to run in soap and warm 
water. 

Scouring- before fulling.— If I scoured any of 
my goods before fulling them, I first wet them 
enough to make them all moist, then added 
enough soap, say, half a barrelful, to start them 
well. They would scour fully as hard as 
if they had been fulled at first. I have also had 
goods on which, after they had run about ten 
minutes, the soap would be all neutralized. I 
would then rinse this off with warm water and 
put on more soap. If the grease is well started 
in the mill, and you raise a good, clean lather in 

34 



the washer, there is not much to fear in the way 
of cloudy goods, or those that will smell after 
being finished. 

Sometimes, when it is necessary to return 
pieces to the washer, and have them rescoured, 
care should be taken that the soap is strong 
enough and of heavy body, as it will be liable 
to die out, turn watery, and then it will be an 
impossibility to get them free from odor. 

Bur, or speck-dyeing —We next have bur or 
speck-dyeing, which maybe done in several ways, 
on cheap classes of goods, in the fulling mill ; 
but I do not consider this the proper way, and I 
never used it so but on satinets. 

A good dye can be made thus : 200 pounds 
extract logwood, no pounds soda ash, and 50 
pounds blue vitriol. This makes 200 gallons 
of dye that stands about io°, which we reduce 
to whatever strength is required to cover the 
specks. Boil in sufficient water to dissolve 
thoroughly the ingredients, boiling the logwood 
and vitriol together. Then add the soda ash 
liquor. Boil as quickly as possible— from one to 
two hours, sure. Stir well. 3 should be plenty 
strong enough to cover the speck under ordinary 
circumstances; and it should be a dark plum 
color. Take a pine stick and let it remain in the 
dye a minute. If the shade is too red, it needs 
more blue vitriol ; if too blue, add more soda ash. 

35 



From the fulling mills put the goods into 
the washer and raise well with soap. When they 
have run about 10 minutes, if they lather nicely, 
add 2 pails of 3 dye to each piece, running 
them in soap and dye 20 minutes. Then rinse 
well with cold water — say 45 minutes. 

Another method.— Another way is this : After 
you have scoured and rinsed well with cold water, 
add 3 pails of 2° dye to each -f piece. Run them 
10 minutes and rinse 45 minutes. When taken 
from the gig — which is the best way to bur-dye 
— use about the same as the others, although 
i%° would be enough ordinarily; for, as soon 
as they are done, they can be extracted and 
dried, whereas, with the other way, they have to 
lie around wet perhaps two days or more. Then 
again, the teasels in the gigs wear off much of 
the dye ; and there are other troubles which 
come under another part of the wet finishing, 
and which make it much more desirable to dye 
this way. 

Blue cast on mixes. — Where a blue cast is re- 
quired on mixes, I have at times achieved this 
by making a dye of double the quantity of blue 
vitriol and taking as much off of the soda ash. 
It is the vitriol that colors the wool ; therefore 
use as little as possible ; but at the same time 
keep a good color on the specks. Always test 
your dye before using. Put on even quantities, 
36 



and always use it stone-cold, and you will not be 
troubled with different shades by bur-dyeing. 

Bur-dyeing union cassimeres — Having some 
light and heavy weight cotton warps, wool filling, 
or union cassimeres, I tried to use the bur-dye 
that I used on all-wool cassimeres before I gigged 
them. But it required so strong a dye to cover up 
the specks that it gave a red shade to the goods, 
although the cotton and specks showed a blue 
shade. It seemed to affect the wool ; and as many 
of the colors had more or less cotton in them, 
the whole appearance was changed. I then used 
the following formula and found it was a success: 

Goods bur-dyed after they were gigged : 
175 lbs. extract logwood. 
140 lbs. soda ash. 
90 lbs. blue vitriol. 

This makes 200 gallons of dye that will 
stand about I5°;this I reduce to 2° for dark 
colors and i° for light shades, putting on 
2^ common pails of dye to each f piece, run- 
ning from 10 to 15 minutes in the dye and rinse 
about 20 minutes. If the goods crock any they 
should be rinsed longer. This depends on how 
good a stream of water one has to the washers ; 
but I find with this formula that they can be 
rinsed very easily, much more so than by No. I 
recipe. 

37 



CHAPTER IV. 

GIGGING. 

Purposes of gigging — New and old gigs — All-wool 
cass i meres— Various styles of finish and methods 
of producing them — Fancy colors — The teasels 
— Goods with a twist — Tender goods. 

Gigging. — Gigging is a process of raising and 
straightening the felt and burls produced by full- 
ing, and when they are thus raised they are 
called the " nap." Various effects in finishing 
may thus be produced. Different weaves, stock, 
and combinations have to be carefully regarded 
at this point of the finishing of woolen cassimeres. 
It is very essential that this process should be 
properly performed, fo'r it is impossible to remedy 
defects on any of the machinery subsequently 
used. 

Of course a piece can be re-gigged after it 
has been sheared, but the result will hardly be 
the same, and there is more or less danger of 
injuring the goods. 

New and old gigs.— There are various kinds 
of gigs in use ; but the same results can be ob- 
tained from almost all of them, from an old style 
up-and-down*, a single cylinder rotary, or a 
double cylinder rotary gig. I have often heard 

38 



old finishers claim that a better finish could be 
obtained from the old style gigs, as they thought 
they could regulate their friction better; but I do 
not see the philosophy of this assertion, and I 
know by experience that the new style machinery 
will do the work as well as, and quicker and 
easier than, the old. A piece of goods for the gigs 
should not be exceedingly wet, neither should it 
be dry, but just moist enough to insure that the 
flock will not fly about the room. Therefore 
when the fabrics come from the washers, they 
should be extracted in a hydro-extractor, say 
four or five minutes. Then put them on a roll- 
ing machine with stretcher attached, to remove 
all wrinkles and straighten the listing if it be 
curled up, rolling them tightly and evenly. 
When rolled, lay them down flat upon a bench 
or rack. Some prefer to stand them on end, 
but I have always found more or less trouble with 
uneven moisture. Even when the ends were 
reversed, the one which was at the bottom last, 
was liable to be more moist, and this being the 
case, uneven gigging followed, as the nap on the 
dry side would not straighten out as well as that 
on the wet. 

Illustrations. — It is impossible to give a gen- 
eral rule for gigging a piece of goods, but a 
few illustrations may supply some instructive 
ideas. 

39 



The principles of gigging are the same, no 
matter which kinds of gigs are used. It is always 
essential to commence with teasels that are 
somewhat worn, or " old work " as it is usually 
called, for a new teasel at first only injures the 
fabric and the finish required. Always bear in 
mind that much depends upon the time employed 
in fulling ; and I here claim that goods that are 
fulled on time can be more evenly gigged than 
those that vary. 

All-wool cassimeres. —We will first take a set 
of 4 pieces of all-wool cassimeres, made of single 
yarns, fulled two and one-half hours and shrunk 
3 inches to the yard. They are firm and quite 
well felted. We will illustrate on a double 
cylinder gig. The finish required is close, but 
not like a worsted. The nap is to lie so that it 
will be impossible to feel any spring. At the 
same time the threads must be full and plump, 
and everyone visible, to show the pattern nicely. 
We first fill both cylinders with " old work " and 
run one hour. Then turn the slats over and run 
one hour. Then put 10, or just one-half of 
each cylinder with a grade better work. We 
will call them 2's (twos). Run one hour, then 
turn them over, reversing those in No. I cylinder 
or in front. Put on a straight belt, or reverse 
gears, so that both cylinders will work the same 
way and run one hour. Then take out the 2's 
40 



and replace the " old work," and, with a very fine 
perforated pipe, sprinkle the goods for thirty min- 
utes. Then take off and put them on what is 
termed a wet or moistening gig, which has a 
trough of water directly under the bottom roll. 
Give them three or four runs and extract well. 
After they are dry give them two runs on the 
dry gig. This makes one of the finest finishes 
that can be produced on a fancy cassimere. 

First gigging may have to be increased.— The 

first gigging may have to be increased, as this 
would depend on the fabric; but after they have 
been gigged enough, the water finish is added. 
I will guarantee that it will more than repay the 
labor expended, as the goods will always give 
satisfaction. There will be no complaints of the 
goods catching lint, roughing of the nap, or 
having that dry and harsh feeling which the trade 
objects too. And it is at this point, in my opinion, 
that more harm is done, and more harsh, dry, 
crisp goods are made, than by the soda ash used 
in the soaps for fulling and scouring. 

If the goods are gigged too dry, they will feel 
so when finished. When I make this assertion, 
I mean goods that full from two to four hours. 
For instance : I once had some fancy whip-cords 
or cork-screws. A very poor black was used. 
It stained the silk which formed the stripe. 
They fulled three-quarters of an hour. I dried 

41 



them, and gave them two hours on " old work," 
and a half hour straight belt. They looked well 
and gave perfect satisfaction in the market; but 
I think they were the only goods I ever handled 
that did give satisfaction worked in this way. 

Different kinds of finish.— For a velour finish, I 
should work in the same way as in the first illus- 
tration, although the goods should full longer, and 
thus they would need, perhaps, a better class of 
" work " or teasels and should be run longer with 
the straight belt. 

A melton finish.— For a melton finish, the 
method is, of course, different, for the goods are 
not to be cleared out, neither is the nap to be 
long and lie flat, but it is to be more like a piece 
of velvet. To obtain this, if the piece is made 
of slack twist, which it should be, give 4 pieces 
two hours on " old work " with the same grade 
of teasels in both cylinders and the cloth touch- 
ing both the same. 

If goods full long and have considerable 
felt in them, it will be necessary to have more 
than two grades of teasels. I have gigged some 
that fulled six to seven hours in this way : One 
hour " old work," one hour 10 twos, each cyl- 
inder; one hour 10 twos turned. Then put in 
IO threes (or a grade better), and run an hour. 
Then to the back cylinders add 5 sharps or 
42 



breakers, and run from one-half hour to one 
hour as may be necessary. 

A doeskin finish.— For a doeskin finish, we will 
illustrate on an old style up-and-down gig. 
Two pieces of black doeskins, made of good 
fleece wool. They full from ten to fifteen hours. 
Fill the cylinder with " old work," give them 6 
runs, reverse the cloth and turn the slats. Give 
6 runs, reverse the cloth and fill the cylinder with 
twos. Give 6 runs, reverse cloth and slats ; then 
6 runs more ; fill again the cylinder with threes, 
give 6 runs, reverse the cloth, and slats ; give 6 
runs more ; then remove the piece from the gig, 
and, after having the goods back-burled, put 
them on the shear, if they are to be finished so 
that the twill or weave is to show crop-close. 
If this is not desired, blur, or leave the nap long. 
Put them back on the gig and give them a run 
or two on the same " work " that was used before 
the cloth was taken off. In the meantime, 
sprinkle them evenly with water, with a watering 
pot or a whisk broom, as they will be too dry 
after shearing for successful gigging. Then fill 
up with fours, give 8 runs, reverse the cloth and 
slats and give 8 runs more. Then put in about 
6 sharps, or breakers, giving from 6 to io runs, 
which will usually be sufficient. Then put them 
on a wet gig, give them 2 runs, run them off 
on a roll, put them into a steam or water-box 

43 



and boil eight hours. Take them out and let 
stand until perfectly cool. Put on the wet gig- 
again, give them 2 runs and reverse the ends 
when put on to the roll again. Repeat this 
operation of steaming two or three times, and 
more, if convenient, always reversing the ends of 
the pieces to keep the shades even and to keep 
both ends alike. Then, when thoroughly cool, put 
them in the washer and rinse well with cold water. 
After they have been colored, put them on 
the gig and straighten out the nap nicely, say 
three or four runs. Extract well and dry. 
If dried on the bars, take a hand-brush and 
smooth out any place that may have become 
roughed up by tentering ; and when dry they 
will be ready for the shear. 

Mixed doeskins. — For mixed doeskins, change 
the gigging somewhat, They full the same as the 
blacks excepting that one is scoured before full- 
ing while the other is fulled in the grease. Gig 
them the same up to the fours, crop and again 
the same as the blacks. Then dry the pieces and 
crop again. Put them on the gig and give four 
or five runs. Then put them on the brushing 
machine and give them two or three runs, at the 
same time giving them a little dry steam. Then 
press hard. 

After this run them on the wet gig so that 
they may be rolled for the steam box. Lay 

44 



them in the box flat, on cleats nailed to the box, 
taking precaution that they do not touch each 
other or the sides of the box. Steam six to 
eight hours ; take them out and cool ; put on gig 
two runs, reverse the ends of the pieces, and 
when taken out to cool, be sure and reverse the 
ends of the rolls or the colors will be uneven. 

Steam again eight hours with the leader 
or ticking used to sew the pieces on the gig, 
wrapped round the roll. Take out, and when 
perfectly cool, put them in the washer, and wash 
with fuller's earth, one pail of the earth to a bar- 
rel of water, and enough of this to wet thor- 
oughly the pieces. Then give them a few runs 
on the wet gig. Extract and dry. 

Fancy colors.— Fancy colors, such as oranges, 
lavenders, mixes, etc., will stand about 140 dry 
steam. Blacks, or black and white mixes, will 
stand either wet or dry steaming. If dry, lay 
them on cleats ; if boiled or wet steamed, stand 
them up squarely in the box ; 180 will not harm 
them. 

Scotch goods.— For a finish on Scotch goods 
that fulled about four hours, and were heavily 
flocked, " old work " in both cylinders, cloth 
striking each the same. Run a half hour only, 
but have the peculiarity of the finish made on 
the shear. 

45 



Hair-line finish.— A hair-line finish on cotton 
warps, illustrated on an up-and-down gig : Cyl- 
inder filled with " old work " ; six runs ; reverse 
slats and cloth ; six runs more ; reverse cloth, 
put in the twelve twos, give six runs, take them 
off and crop say half way down. Put them on 
the gig again, give six runs, reverse cloth and 
add six sharps or breakers. Give twelve runs. 
The goods full six hours and are heavily flocked. 
Finish required is clear, but soft and velvety. 

Fancy cotton warp finish.— A fancy cotton 
warp finish, all cotton, filling all wool : Six runs 
"old work"; reverse slats and cloth; six runs, 
again reverse cloth, add twelve fours, give ten to 
eighteen runs, as may be necessary. The goods 
full five hours and are heavily flocked. 

Worsted finish. — In a worsted finish the goods 
should not have excessive fulling. Raise the nap 
slowly at first with " old work." Then gig them 
one way. It may be necessary to put in iotwos 
in the finishing cylinder. The more they are 
worked one way, the higher the luster that will 
be obtained. 

Care must be taken not to streak the goods. 

Always use a fine teasel. If using iron slats, 

have them set with three rows. If set properly 

they should break joints, or the same as shingles 

are put on. Also see that they are all of the 

same size. 

46 



The teasels.— In order to keep the teasels, or 
" work," as it is called, always the same, some 
system should be used, in adding new slats, and 
at the same time, not to alter the finish of your 
goods. I have always found the following to 
work well, although this might possibly be im- 
proved upon. 

Goods with & twist.— If you have goods with 
twist in them, or a good strong fabric, work in 
breakers or new teasels when finishing up, so as 
to have plenty to throw into fours, or sharps, for 
more delicate goods that may follow, which will 
not require as good work to finish up with. Take 
three slats from the fours you have been using, 
and lay aside until there are nine thus thrown 
out. Then take nine from the finishing cylinder, 
and replace them with the old fours. Then take 
from the first cylinder's nine, and replace them 
with those taken from the finishing cylinder. 
This leaves nine slats rejected, which should be 
reset with new teasels, always taking the poorest 
to change from one to another. It is not safe to 
work in more than three sharps or breakers at a 
time, unless it is a 24-slat cylinder; then I should 
use four at a time; but in an 18-slat cylinder 
three are enough. Always have them divided 
evenly ; and put on the brakes gradually, not all 
at once. Even if the goods will stand such treat- 
ment, it only breaks down the points of the teasels. 

47 



Practice needed for good work —I wish all of 
the readers of this article to understand one 
thing, and that is this : I do not claim in any of 
the above illustrations, that they can put a piece 
of goods on the gigs and give it just so much 
time or so many runs, and have the piece 
gigged all right. This can only be determined 
by practice and judgment. To find out when a 
piece of goods is gigged nearly enough, take the 
goods firmly over the fingers of the left hand, 
and, with thumbnail, part the nap. If the threads 
look clear, and show up round and full, they are 
nearly gigged. Or a pen-knife inserted under 
the nap, if it enters freely, will give .you an idea, 
with a little practice, as to about what condition 
they are in ; also what we term the " feel " or 
handle of a piece of goods makes another guide 
to go by. They should feel pliable and soft and 
the nap lie smoothly and straight. 

Tender goods. — One more thing I wish to say 
before drawing this chapter to a close : It is in 
regard to tender goods. Many are made on the 
gigs ; at the same time it may be necessary to 
make them so, in order to obtain the finish 
required. If a worsted finish is wanted, and the 
goods have fulled eight or more hours, I defy 
almost any man to obtain it on single yarns. 
When a certain finish is required it should be 
regulated before it gets to the gigs. Always 

4 3 



look and see that your goods are strong before 
they go on the gigs. I have seen goods that 
had all double and twist filling which were like 
pulp. After fulling four hours it would be im- 
possible to gig them at all and have them strong. 
Tender goods can be caused by tender wool, by 
using an excessive amount of sulphuric acid in 
the dye-house, by the wool being cut on the cards, 
by not having enough twist in the yarn, by long 
fulling, and by excessive gigging. Always see 
that the fulling and gigging are properly done. 
Then, if you have tender goods, look elsewhere. 



49 



CHAPTER V. 

DRYING. 

Drying machines or tenter-bars — The best methods 
of drying worsteds and woolens— practical hints 
— Troubles with the flocks. 

Drying machines or tenter-bars. — When woolen 
or worsted goods come from the gigs they should 
be thoroughly extracted before putting them on 
the drying machine or tenter-bars. There has 
always been more or less discussion as to which 
is the better way to dry goods. Many claim 
that a piece of cloth will look and handle better 
dried in the open air, on the tenter-bars, than on 
a drying machine. I have never been able to 
discover the superiority of one way to another. 
I have employed both methods with the same 
class of goods, and also on very particular work. 
I have used several different styles of drying 
machines, but not all of them ; and I prefer a first- 
class machine to tenter-bars for almost all classes 
of goods, and for several reasons. Take a large 
mill that will produce from twenty to thirty 6-4 
pieces per day on fancy cassimeres or worsteds. 
One man with a machine and good steam will 
easily dry these, and I have dried from forty to 
fifty pieces per day. 

50 



This work is all done by one man. He is 
responsible if the goods are damaged by negli- 
gence. They are more likely to come out uni- 
form, both in width and the natural stretching 
they receive lengthwise. Then, again, if it should 
happen (which it often does) that there is a hurry 
for any particular style, it does not take more 
than fifteen or twenty minutes to dry a piece, 
whereas on the bars it would take possibly half of a 
day before the fabric would be ready. I consider 
it fully as cheap, if not cheaper, to dry on a ma- 
chine as on the bars out of doors, and the goods 
will look as well. There will be many readers 
of this article that have not forgotten the time 
(and many that are obliged to do it now will best 
realize how pleasant it was) when it was neces- 
sary to shoulder a wet piece of goods and start 
out for the tenter-bars with the mercury below 
zero. It is by no means agreeable to leave a 
warm room to do this work, but it must be done 
just the same ; and after the fingers have become 
almost numb with the cold, the workman may 
accidentally receive a cold tenter-hook in the ball 
of the thumb or finger. I know just how pleasant 
this is. I have been through the experience, and 
if Ihad followed it up much longer, I doubt if I 
should have been a finisher. 

Tentering.— One man stands at the head of the 
bars and hooks on the end of the piece, while 

5i 



another carries it along ; still another placing it 
on the arms or pins at each upright post, keep- 
ing it all straight. When they come to the end 
they pull it up taut, that there may be no slack 
or wrinkles throughout the piece. I usually put 
the face of the goods inside or next to the bars, 
as it does not rough the nap up so much as it 
does with the other side out. 

A patent tenter-hook has been produced, or 
rather a clothing, which comes in strips often or 
twelve feet, which consists of a steel wire driven 
through from the flat side and coming out on a 
bevel of this strip of wood. This is firmly 
nailed on to the bars, and for durability and con- 
venience I never have seen its equal. When 
stripping the bars of the goods, they come off 
much easier and are less liable to damage the 
piece than the old style of hook. 

Then, again, one can tenter about twice as 
fast. One great inconvenience, where there is 
not work enough to keep two men busy all of 
the time, is that it is often necessary to take out 
most of the force in the wet finishing-room. 
This rather demoralizes things, and not as good 
results are obtained. 

The dry-house. — I now have a large dry-house, 
two stories high, with a large cupola for ventila- 
tion. Two rows of inch-and-a-quarter steam 
pipe go the whole length of the bars. One, six 

52 



inches above the lower edge of the cloth, the 
other about twelve above this. We put a piece 
on each side of the bars ; this encloses the heat. 
I have been able to take off three sets of pieces 
per day. We run an independent boiler for 
heating, which enables us to have steam and 
enough of it whenever necessary. Two men do 
all of the work, and the production is about 6,000 
yards per week as 6-4. 

Troubles with flocks.— One disadvantage which 
has been claimed by several manufacturers (al- 
though it might have been more the fault of the 
finisher), is that of drying union cassimeres that 
are flocked heavily and have more or less cotton 
mixed with the wool ; it is almost impossible to dry 
them fast, or rather as quick as they should be. 
On the drum cylinder dryers, when the radiators 
or coils of pipes are enclosed within the drum, 
the flocks, dropping from the goods, soon fill 
them up and prevent the heat from escaping 
readily. I never have had any trouble of this 
kind where everything was kept clean and I had 
all the steam I wanted. One trouble I did have 
once, and which may serve to keep some one out 
of difficulty, was the damaging of the goods on 
the side. When they were going over the 
stretchers there would be small three-cornered 
holes made by blocks. This I easily remedied 
(when I found out what the trouble was) by setting 

53 



the receiving roll just as close to the drum as 
possible, then setting the stretching blocks up as 
close as possible to the receiving roll. It is very- 
simple after one knows how, but I have seen many 
finishers bothered by this simple affair. Dry 
your goods as quickly as possible ; do not let 
them stand and bake, and I will guarantee they 
will be just as good dried on a machine as in the 
open air. Get your goods clean, and that will 
do more towards improving the feeling and ap- 
pearance of the cloth than the difference in the 
modes of drying. 



54 



CHAPTER VI. 

SHEARING. 

Back-burling — The shears — Don't tinker at the 
Shears — Difficulties — Arranging the shears — 
Grinding, etc. — Oiling the swab frequently — 
Refusing to cut — Shearing the goods — Shearing. 

Back-burling. — Before the goods are put 
upon the shear, they should first be carefully 
back-burled. See that every bunch and knot 
is removed. Do not take the burling-irons to 
remove them, but with the point of a pair of 
scissors, carefully raise the bunches or knots and 
clip them off. If the irons are used, there is a 
liability that too much will be taken out. This 
only makes work for the sewers, and it is not 
the proper way to remove them. 

When the goods are put on the shear, care 
should be taken to make a good, fine sewing. 
The saving on the ends will more than repay for 
the time it takes to do this, and it will enable the 
attendant to finish the ends of the piece as nicely 
as the middle, whereas if a poor sewing is made, 
the goods will be all streaked for a yard or more. 

Setting the screws. — Set the screws or notches 
on so that you just trim the nap lightly. On a 
heavy-weight piece 24 notches are none too many 

55 



to set off, and after giving the piece a run let 
down two or three, and so on, until they all 
have been let down. Then give the piece five 
or six runs to smooth it nicely. Of course any 
piece of goods with a thin or short nap, would 
not require so many runs ; but fancy cassimeres, 
unions and doeskins, that full from three to five 
or more hours, should all be cut very slowly, for 
then they look better. The face will not look as 
though half the nap were pulled out, and what 
was left dragged and pressed down over the 
other colors, looking like so many spider legs. 
And, moreover, your shears do not need grinding 
so often ; and the less grinding done the better, 
for every time a shear is sharpened chances are 
taken of its getting out of true. 

The shears. — Of all finishing-room machinery, 
the shears need the most particular attention. 
Not only is it necessary to have them started up 
right, but they require a constant supervision. 
A little neglect on the part of the attendant will 
undo in a moment that which will require hours 
to remedy. Neglect to oil the swabs will soon 
draw the temper on the ledger blade or at least 
will soon rough it so that the cutting quality will 
be spoiled, causing them to rattle and ring. Neg- 
lect to oil the revolver-bearings will soon wear 
them out, as the revolver runs fast, making from 

56 



900 to iooo revolutions per minute, to say noth- 
ing of the minor troubles, which will arise unless 
well looked after. 

Don't tinker at the shears.— At the same time 
I have often thought that too much, as well as too 
little or not enough, is frequently done around 
the shears. Some are never satisfied unless they 
are tinkering half of the time. If a few pieces of 
goods come along and do not shear out perfectly 
even, away they go for a file, or a wrench, and 
everything has to be changed. Not half of the 
time do such men know why they make a change, 
but one must be made, so they try this thing and 
that to see if it does not help the matter. Nine 
times out often, the trouble is not with the shears 
but is really caused by uneven fulling, or flocking, 
poor listing, too tight or too loose, bad work on 
the dresser, or by numerous other things, which 
cannot be made right on the shear, even if it be 
working to perfection. 

Find the cause of the trouble.— There are trou- 
bles to be sure, that belong to the shear, such as 
poor brushes or when the brushes are set uneven 
by imperfect friction on the cloth, the blades not 
cutting, the carriage set too high or too low, the 
rest loose, streaks made by the brushes being 
filled up with greasy flocks, and also made by 
rough places on the revolver causing the oil to 

57 



flow freer from the swab, or by a poor swab, or un- 
even oiling of the same ; also by an uneven blade. 
But with all of these difficulties, we must first find 
the cause. Filing the rest, or grinding out the 
ledger blade, will not remedy the defects made in 
some of the other machinery, for should we fit 
the shear for the imperfection of some other ma- 
chine, when we did get a piece right our shear 
would be as far off as ever; and we should again 
have to tinker, to get it right. 

Above all things, never file the rest, as it is 
impossible to replace that which has been removed. 
If the rest be out of true, send it to the shop and 
have it put in order. Then leave it so. 

I admit that there are difficulties which will 
arise, that require good judgment and patience to 
overcome them ; but^ don't have a " howling*' 
shear in the room. 

Arranging the shears.— We must first take 
into consideration, that every machine should be 
placed on a solid foundation and set perfectly 
level, and especially one that runs as fine as a 
shear. To begin with, see that the frame sets 
solid and level, that the brushes rest and carriage 
are level, and in their proper place. 

We will suppose that we go into a new shop 
and find that the shears are working badly, that 
the ledger blade is about worn out, that the revol- 
ver or fly blades are out of true, and that the bear- 

58 



ings of the revolver are badly worn, but the rest 
we find is perfectly straight and true. We first 
turn down the bearings, and fill the boxes with 
Babbit metal. Then put the revolver upon a 
grinder, traverse, or solid lead cylinder, and grind 
until it is perfectly true. If the revolver is hollow 
or smallest in the middle, set both ends up 
carefully so that they just touch, and grind 
slowly until the hollow place is reached. Even 
then grind until a keen edge is obtained all 
along the revolver. If the middle should be the 
fullest, set it up to the cylinder so that it just 
touches, being careful not to set one end up 
faster than the other. Grind until a keen edge 
is obtained all along. 

Then remove the revolver, and replace it in 
the bearings of the carriage. If the ledger blade 
is not so far gone that a new one is required, 
place this on the grinder, and what we term, 
face it, or make a new, broad bevel on the front 
of the blade, striking back somewhat on the old 
bevel, so that when the edge is reached the bevel 
will not be so short as to prevent a free operation 
of the cloth between the rest and the blade. 
Place the ledger or blade-bed into the carriage, 
and with the lower middle screw raise it until 
you have obtained about the right pitch. Then 
with the upper middle screw, draw the blade up 
to the revolver until it just touches. Then bring 

59 



the ends up in the same way, and tighten the 
screws midway between the center and ends. 

Next see that the blade is parallel with the 
revolver, and nearly up to the center. Most 
manufacturers now put a center-mark on the 
revolver, so that it is quite easy to set the blade 
even. But if this is not done, center the boxes, 
marking them on the inside. Then set them 
midway of the screw that operates them up and 
down ; with a straight edge or rule place it on 
the face of the blade and even with the edge, 
extending it out to the arm of the carriage. 
Then with a rule kept parallel with the center 
line made on the box, measure down to the rule 
on the blade. 

Or take a try square ; put the thick part in 
the box, and with the thin edge kept parallel 
with the center mark, with a rule on the upper 
edge of the blade, extend it out to the square. 
Either way will show plainly whether the blade 
is even to center or not. 

Always try both ends and have them as 
near alike as possible and nearly up to the center 
before starting. 

We then replace the revolver in the bearings, 
screw down the caps, and see if the blades will 
cut dry paper. If at any point they refuse to 
cut, tighten up a trifle on the upper row of screws 
in the bed. 



60 



After it is all set evenly, we shall have to run 
the revolver backwards a little to fit them together 
nicely, adding some flour of emery and oil. 
Be sure and put this on evenly. A piece of old 
belting for a strop works well. Be sure that the 
blades are loose enough not to cause any ringing 
or scratching while grinding, as they will burn 
or draw the temper very quickly while this 
operation is being performed ; but they should 
be gradually set up together, so that when they 
are all ground they will not spring apart when 
the nap of the goods is pressed into them. 
They should run at least one hour in oil, to polish 
and smooth them, as they run much nicer and 
longer by so doing. 

After grinding.— After the grinding has been 
in progress a short time, remove the revolver, 
and see if there is an even bevel on the back of 
the blade. Also see that the fine bevel made by 
honing on the face of the blade is not ground out. 
Care should always be taken not to grind this 
entirely out, as the blade wastes away very fast 
when this is gone. To make sure of this, always 
give it a few turns across with the hone before 
grinding, as it will brighten it up, and will be 
more readily observed while grinding. 

If all is right, replace the revolver and pro- 
ceed until finished. Then clean all of the emery 
and oil out of the blades. Again rub the ledger 

61 



blade carefully with the hone (or oil stone), keep- 
ing the lower part of the hone about an inch from 
the lower part of the flat side of the blade. 
Always when honing the last time, run the hone 
straight across, from one end to the other, never 
up and down, or in a rolling manner, as this 
destroys an even keen edge. 

After cleaning the machine, put in the re- 
volver, tighten the cap screws with the fingers, 
and turn the revolver with the hand to cut off 
the wire edges made by honing. Then tighten 
up the caps, put on the swab and oil it evenly 
and well. 

Frequent oiling of the swab.— I would say here, 
that I always oil the swab every time I put on a 
new piece. I once took a room in a large mill ; 
the finisher had been there for years, but was 
always troubled more or less with oil streaks on 
his cloth, and he did not oil his swab more than 
twice or three times a day. There were three 
shears, and it took almost half the time to sharpen 
and keep them in order. The trouble was 
that they ran too dry. The blades when warm 
would expand, running very tightly together. 
They soon got burnt and roughed up, and would 
not do good work. When I found time I went 
over them all in the manner I shall speak of soon. 
The result was that they ran four months con- 
tinuously on hard cutting goods. I honed the 

62 



ledger blade once in two or three weeks. I 
met this finisher some time afterwards in my 
room. Very likely some one told him of the 
change I had made. Stepping up he addressed 
me as follows : 

" Mr. , I have taken care of shears a 

good many years, but I must admit that you can 
discount me. I always had to grind once a week, 
two weeks at the longest, and they tell me you 
do not grind more than once in three or four 
months. Will you please tell me how you do it ? " 

I replied : " Certainly. Your shears were 
well set up when I found them. There are only 
two things of any consequence that I have 
changed about them, viz.: — I cut slow, I make 
my shear attendants do their hurrying when they 
are changing their pieces, and I oil the swab, 
every piece, lightly, but evenly. " 

He thanked me and said that was where he 
had made a mistake. I only speak of this to illus- 
trate the importance of slow cutting, and the oil- 
ing of the swab properly. I then put on a piece 
of goods, cutting the nap very slowly at first ; and, 
if the blades, after running a short time, are 
inclined to pull, I draw the revolver up J of a 
turn of the screw. This draws it a trifle more 
upon the edge of the ledger. 

Refusing to cut.— If after running a week or 
more the blade refuses to cut, press up all along 

63 



the upper row of screws in the bed a trifle. 
This will usually remedy the trouble. But if, 
after long usage, the blades become dull, remove 
the revolver from the boxes and insert a piece of 
cardboard, to throw the revolver off from the 
ledger blade. Replace it and run backwards, 
holding the hone directly on top and perfectly par- 
allel. Slowly and lightly run from one end to 
the other, being careful not to give one part 
any more time than the other, at the same time 
adding flour of emery and oil to the stone. When 
a keen edge is obtained clear across, remove the 
cardboard, replace the revolver, setting off the 
ledger blade, by operating on the upper tier of 
screws, until it nearly cuts dry paper, and proceed 
as I have before stated. 

• Grinding the revolver with a hone —I would 
say in regard to grinding the revolver with a 
hone, that many might suppose after they had 
ground awhile and observed that the ends of the 
revolver were sharp, and the middle was yet quite 
dull, that they ought to cease on the ends and 
only grind in the middle. But bear in mind 
that the middle of the revolver is always the 
dullest inasmuch as the cloth never goes to the 
extreme ends of the blades. Therefore after the 
ends are sharp and keen, proceed just the same, 
running the stone to the extreme end. If not, 
you will soon have the revolver out of true, or 

64 



hollow in the middle. After this clean and re- 
place the revolver, etc., and with proper care, 
occasionally honing, they should keep sharp for 
three or four months, even with constant use and 
a little cotton worked in the stock. 

Heating* and scratching.— There are times 
when it seems almost impossible to keep the 
blades from heating, scratching, or roughing up. 
But if a close observation be made, it will usually 
be found that the iron on the back part of the 
fly blades is as high as the steel. As it is much 
softer it rolls or draws over the steel, and running 
between the blades causes them to rough up (as 
we term it). When this is the case, the revolver 
should either be sent to the manafacturers or 
placed upon a planer and backed off, afterwards 
being smoothed with a fine file, should there be 
any places that are not quite taken out. 

Shearing the goods.— In shearing a piece of 
goods do not have the blades too high or above 
the rest, as this injures the cloth. If the listings 
are anyways poor it will cut them ; also every 
little knot or pimple will be cut off. Draw the 
carriage down so that when the last notches have 
been dropped, there will be a slight tremble, or 
jar, on the cloth, caused by the revolver touching 
it lightly, but this will not be perceptible when 
the piece is finished. This is for woolens or 
cassimercs only ; for worsteds the revolver should 

65 



not be allowed to touch the cloth, as it is liable to 
injure the threads. 

Scotch finish on the shear.— The peculiarity of 
the Scotch finish I have spoken of, was obtained 
on the shear. The carriage was drawn down -J 
or one turn of the screws, from where fancy cas- 
simeres had been shearing. It being so low that 
the strike or tremble on the goods was obtained, 
when the nap was y 1 ^ of an inch long, the revol- 
ver kept picking the nap up, and when finished, a 
thick upright nap was obtained, perfectly square, 
and not at all dragged out, as the brushes were 
set off the last three runs. On the velour finish 
the raising brush should be set off. If the nap 
is required to lie straight, nothing should be done 
to disturb that which has been obtained on the 
gigs ; but in this case I did not let the revolver 
strike the cloth, as it was inclined to disturb the 
lay of the nap, and make it curly. 

Uneven shearing— Sometimes pieces that are 
flocked and shrunk considerably, will be inclined 
to shear out uneven, when it is known that the 
shear is perfectly right, and has been shearing 
certain styles (that have been treated different) all 
even. I have at times remedied this trouble by 
making the back friction-roll perfectly tight ; 
that is, I would not depend upon the friction, but 
lay, or cover with cloth, the delivering roll in 
front, until it delivered the cloth to the rest as 
66 



fast as the back roll took it away, and by drop- 
ping the carriage, so that there was no danger of 
cutting or the cloth being forced into the blades, 
it would usually shear out more even. 

Now, the philosophy of this is easily ex- 
plained. If the cloth draws tight over the rest, 
the thin places are so drawn down that the blades 
do not cut the nap but simply clear off the part 
that comes nearest to them ; whereas, if the 
cloth goes over loose, it is more liable to cut 
even, as the heavy places are usually on the back, 
caused by more felt and flock taking in better. 

Tight listings.— Sometimes the listings are 
dressed and woven so tight that the sides of the 
cloth hug the rest, while the middle perhaps is 
loose or just slack, and will shear out the quick- 
est. This may be remedied by first shearing the 
middle about as low as required ; then drop J 
on the rest and J- on the carriage, letting down 
one or two notches. This will shear out the 
opposite side. Then raise the notches say 5 or 
6, and raise the carriage and rest J of a turn of 
the screw. This will shear out the remaining 
side; then drop J on each. You will have the 
carriage all even again for the next piece. At the 
same time, goods should not come so uneven as 
to oblige you to resort to this plan. I merely 
mention these points so that in case it did happen, 
they could, with a little care, be sheared out even. 

67 



Keep the shear clean. — I will add a fourth word 
of advice Keep all of the parts well oiled and 
clean, even if driven with work. It is never 
economy to run day after day with an unclean 
shear. 



68 



CHAPTER VII. 
CHINCHILLA FINISHING. 

PECULIARITIES OF THE CHINCHILLA FINISH— METHODS 
OF OPERATION— THE CHINCHILLA MACHINE— SETTING 

the machine— Rubbers and followers— Speeds, 

ETC. 

Peculiarities of this finish— The manipulation 
of goods in the producing of the chinchilla 
finish necessitates a departure from the old rules 
of ordinary cassimere finishing; brings into op- 
eration some special machinery ; and opens up 
new ways to exercise the judgment, and to try 
the temper and patience of the finisher. Two 
methods are employed in the portion of the 
process before the nubbing, which methods are 
governed by the supply of machinery, the grade 
of goods and time. 

In the first place, the fabric should be 
specially designed to produce the best effects in 
the finishing. The face yarn should be of a 
nature to produce a full nap ; the weave should 
be smooth and free from any pattern-effects pro- 
duced by the weave; and the fabric, as a whole, 
should have no stiffness, but rather a tendency 
towards sponginess. 

If the previous processes have been intelli- 

69 



gently manipulated, the fulling (which should 
not be a very lengthy process), will leave the 
goods well felted, yet with an absence of hard- 
ness or stiffness. Where the goods are wool- 
dyed, the usual care has to be taken to keep 
the colors good, as every finisher understands. 
We will take the goods of the class named, and 
"put a piece through. " 

Methods of operation— After fulling and wash- 
ing, it should be freed from wrinkles so as to 
avoid any appearance of streaks due to gigging. 
Gig thoroughly: the writer approves of double 
cylinder gigs as producing the best results, and 
all the time should be occupied that the quality 
of goods and amount of machinery will admit of. 

Should the conditions admit of it, the piece 
should be cropped, the nap straightened, and 
then dried in whatever manner the equipment of 
the room provides for. After drying, the nap 
should be softened up, and then it is sheared. 

Right here appears a variation from the 
usual method as regards this process, in which, 
instead of the ordinary raising brush, a wire 
brush is substituted which more thoroughly and 
evenly raises the nap. When the required close- 
ness of shearing has been attained, one or two 
runs are given with laying brush off, after which 
it is ready for the nubbing or frizzing machine. 

At this point, we will retrace our steps and 

70 



show wherein a variation from the above method 
takes place, and also introduce a machine which 
plays an important part, or can be made to do so. 
After the gigging process, the piece may be 
cropped— supposing that we are going to handle 
it this way— then the nap straightened, after 
which it is run through a " whipper," face down 
and "whipped" on the back, which process pro- 
duces an erect position of the nap; after which, 
the piece must be dried as quickly as possible, 
and the finisher must avoid as much as possible 
matting the nap down. After drying, the piece 
may be sheared as before mentioned, and taken 
to chinchilla machine. 

There are different makes of machines which 
are capable of producing good work. Each kind 
has its admirers ; but where a man takes charge 
of a room to finish this class of goods, he takes 
what machinery he finds in the room and gets 
all the good he can out of it. The writer, of 
course, has a preference. 

The chinchilla machine.— The chinchilla ma- 
chine is one having an oblong surface about two 
feet wide by five feet long, placed in a frame about 
three feet from the floor, over which the cloth 
passes very slowly face upward. Over this is a 
strong cast-iron " follower " of about the same size 
and shape of the " bed," through each end of 
which an upright shaft passes and is movable 

7i 



up and down by means of a handle. On the 
under side of this " follower" is a plate of solid 
rubber securely fastened to it, which, on being- 
lowered, rests on the face of the cloth. On the 
upright shafts is a mechanism for producing a 
rotary motion to the " follower " which rubs on the 
cloth, twisting the nap into spiral points. Other 
mechanism is also provided to transform the 
rotary to a reciprocal motion, either forward and 
backward, from side to side, or diagonally. The 
upright shafts are geared to the main shaft which 
passes through lower part of machine, and which 
receives motion from main or counter-shaft by 
means of a belt. The rotary mechanism is capa- 
ble of being increased or diminished, thereby 
varying the " sweep." 

Setting" of the machine. — The setting of the 
machine is, like the rest of the different processes 
of finishing, dependent more on judgment than 
upon any arbitrary rule that can be advanced as 
sure; but the amount of " sweep" should not, in 
the opinion of the writer, be excessive. The 
pressure of the " follower " on the cloth is also 
a matter on which the judgment must be exer- 
cised. 

It is important that the rubbing material be 
kept free from any tendency to gum up and glaze. 
The writer has taken the " follower " from its 
position at intervals of a week, and with a mod- 

72 



erately rough substance removed any accumu- 
lated grease or glaze. 

Rubbers and followers.— It is of great import- 
ance that the surface of the rubber be absolutely 
true. If not true, it may be due to the wood which 
forms the back being warped, which if the case, 
the rubber must be removed and the surface 
planed. The same also applies to the bottom 
surface, which is covered with a good grade of 
Brussels or velvet carpet. All tendency on the 
part of the " follower " to depart from the motion 
required to produce the finish and effect desired, 
should be reduced to a minimum ; such as when 
a " Whitney" finish is being produced, the ten- 
dency to describe a round motion should be 
checked, and the motion be directed in a straight 
line. The same with the " Petersham " or round 
motion ; the motion should be round and not 
elliptic. 

Speed of the main shaft.— The speed of the 
main shaft of machine should be not over 145 
turns a minute, which will produce a speed of 
the rubber of about 500 turns. Fine goods have 
been run through the machine once, leaving (on 
Petershams) a spiral nub, taken to shear, cropped, 
and put through a second time. 

Cheaper grades have been treated as before, 
only omitting second nubbing. There are other 
effects which can be produced, such as a rolling 

73 



up of the nap caused by a cross motion of the 
machine operating on long napped goods, diag- 
onal effects, etc. The chinchilla machine is used 
to good advantage on goods with a woven pat- 
tern, on what are termed "cut beavers," where 
there are certain threads which are cut off in the 
gigging.process, thereby developing the pattern, 
the machine bringing up more distinctly the cord, 
rib, diagonal, or any of the numerous patterns 
which have been produced. From the machine, 
the transit to the roll should be as brief as is 
possible; and while awaiting shipment the rolls 
should be stood on end, and avoid crowding in 
case. 

The writer in the above brief sketch has 
endeavored to give an idea of a process which 
has stood the test of experience; but to lay out 
any line of details, or to give any rules to govern 
one is impossible, for the intelligent finisher well 
knows that his experience and success are due 
to careful study of conditions, and his observation 
of effects and their causes. Good success can be 
obtained without the use of the " whipper," but 
probably the use of one will produce the best 
effect. 



74 



CHAPTER VIII. 
INSPECTING AND PRESSING. 
Inspecting the fabric — Specking or fine burling 
— Sewing or fine drawing— Pressing the goods 
— Differences in pressing — Inspection — The 
perch— Shading with sample— Finishing-room 
book and how to keep it. 

Inspecting.— After the goods have been 
sheared, we have the first opportunity to inspect 
them thoroughly, and to see if all has been done 
right since they left the looms; for there are 
many things in the weaving that do not show 
until the fabric is finished, and should be re- 
ported at once. There are also many things in 
the finishing, which, for the first time, we 
have* a chance to detect, such as improper 
attention in the mills, in the gigs, the cloths 
not stretched and dried properly, and still 
further back, not burled and sewed as they 
might have been. We certainly should avail 
ourselves of this opportunity, and carefully in- 
spect the goods over a perch, comparing with 
the original samples for colors, finish, etc. Should 
we find any troubles arising from any negligence 
of the operatives or machinery, see to it at once. 
If we have been keeping a correct account of the 

75 



gigging, fulling, etc., and have been obliged to 
make changes ; if we have noted these changes 
on the books, which should be kept at each point 
of the work, we shall know at once what it is 
that has caused a change in the finish. 

For instance, we may have a certain style 
coming along, that we think may be improved 
by shrinking a little more, or perhaps they have 
been unable to put in the number of picks that 
there should be, on account of poor work, or 
they are coming too light, or a trifle too heavy. 
If this is noted on the fulling book, we shall be able 
to refer back, and see what has caused a change 
in the appearance of the goods. It saves time if 
notes have been made of the changes as we go 
along from one machine to the other. It is 
always bad enough to have accidents and 
mistakes happen, but it is much worse to have 
goods damaged, and not to know how, when or 
where this was done. 

After pulling over the perch carefully, the 
goods are ready for the speckers. 

Specking or fine burling.— Much depends on 
what is to be taken out or covered up, and how 
we shall proceed in this. If the goods are full 
of wool-specks, they should be removed with 
the burling irons ; also the large burs, etc., 
should be removed in this way ; but cotton-speck, 
small burs or shives can successfully be covered 

76 



with a dotting-ink or bur-dye, which is better 
than picking them out, as the speckers are liable 
to injure the threads ; and on light weights espe- 
cially there will be small holes left by specking 
with the irons. Even when the ink or dye is used, 
care' must be taken not to get on too much or 
the cloth will be spotted. In inking, use a well- 
sharpened, hard-wood stick. Let each specker 
have a needle, with some light-colored yarn or 
thread, and mark each imperfection that is found 
by sewing the thread near it, leaving the end out 
long By so doing the fine drawers can spend 
their time fixing the imperfections, instead of 
searching for them. Keep each specker's work 
in a book, so that any bad work can be located 
Also add it up at the end of the week, to see if 
this part is being kept up, and that each specker 
is doing a fair proportion of the work. 

Sewing—The sewer's or fine drawer'sbusiness 

is carefullyto inspect the cloth, replacing or sewing 

all that is possible. A skillful hand at this work 

can often more than save her wages in about 30 

minutes. Small threads left out by the other 

sewers, little imperfections made in the weaving or 

the finishing, coarse threads, imperfect twist, 

should all be mended nicely at this point, as it can 

be done much better before pressing than after. 

I have always had the best results by using 

yarns taken from the goods we were at work upon. 



77 



If the yarns are not washed, they surely will 
not shade alike; and many times the other 
colors have some influence in changing the 
shade, s*o that it is almost impossible to wash by 
hand the yarns and have them the same as in the 
piece. I therefore cut off an eighth or a quarter of 
a yard, or take a small strip off the side, saving 
it to mend others that may be coming along, of 
like colors. 

After carefully looking the face over, pull 
them back over the perch and through light, 
closing all small holes or light places, either on 
the face or on the back. It is impossible to give 
any more information in regard to sewing. 
Always have, if possible, a first-class workman. 
After leaving the perch, the goods should be 
brushed clean on the back and face, and then 
they are ready for pressing. 

Pressing.— This part of the work is very es- 
sential, but not so difficult to manage as the 
shearing, since we now have the improved rotary 
presses. With the old-style press it is more 
tedious than complicated to have to paper up all 
of the cloth, and to lay up with warm plates. 
Then three or four men had to take hold of the bar 
and w^rk for ten or twenty minutes turning 
it down. Even with the hydraulic presses the 
cloth has to be papered sometimes twice, as in 
the old screw press, to avoid the folds made by 

78 



the papers on the edge of them. This is now 
done away with. There may be a few that have 
not made improvements, but a man would see 
that if he only intended to run his mill two years, 
he would save money and do the work better. 

It is unnecessary for me to dwell upon the 
use of the old style press. Neither can much 
be said of the new ; it is so simple and practi- 
cable that a boy is able to do the work, where 
before it has taken two or three men. If any- 
thing breaks about the machine, which seldom 
happens, it can easily be fixed or sent to the man- 
ufacturers for repairs. The " Gessner Press," I 
think, is the best for all purposes, and considered 
as the most efficient by all practical men. 

Differences in pressing.— If I had a cheviot 
finish or anything similar, I always pressed them 
face to the cylinder; but fancy cassimeres, wor- 
steds, etc., with the face to the bed, and for these 
reasons : With the face next to the roll, the curl 
to the nap was not disturbed or dragged out, but 
with the nap cut close and nothing to disturb it, 
I could get more luster the other way. Either 
way, I always try to put the most pressing on the 
back, by having the pressure on the back the 
warmest. It does not leave the fabric so, .harsh, 
dry and crispy, but helps give it the cool, damp 
feeling which is always desirable. The goods 
should be well dry-steamed, and put upon a roll 
and let lie there until they are perfectly cool 

79 



before being removed. Put them into a rack. 
Never pile them up, or let them lie on the floor. 

Inspecting.— At this point of the work a good, 
capable man should be employed, one that can 
be depended upon. A few strokes of the pen or 
pencil, crayons, etc., will save many dollars. In 
a small room the finisher might find time to do 
this, but in a 10 to 15 set mill he will have business 
enough without being tied to the perch. An 
inspector, with an assistant, should be able 
carefully to look over all the goods, measure 
them, keep the books, shade, roll and case up 
for a 10 or 12 set mill on fancy cassimeres. 

The best light that can be obtained should 
be used ; also all of the conveniences procurable, 
as this is the last time we shall be able to inspect 
the goods before they go to market. 

A few years ago it was not necessary to 
take so much care. The goods were usually 
pulled over a table, measured and inspected, and 
a sample laid on to see if they were of the right 
style before putting on a ticket. But those times 
have gone by, and everything is being done to 
make the goods as nearly perfect as possible. 

The perch.— The best way to inspect goods is 
to pull them over a perch. Have it as high as 
possible, for a much better view can be obtained. 
Have a board covered with zinc, to make a good, 
smooth surface, directly back of the cloth, about 
80 



as high up as convenient to work upon. Below 
have a box to pull the cloth into, to keep it off 
the floor, or it may be run upon a roll again, it 
being very easy to apply power from below and 
have a lever to operate on with the foot ; but it 
is just as well to pull them into a box and pull 
them over the table, measuring and rolling at 
the same time. 

In order to have some system about the 
work, those goods that are measured to-day, 
leave on the rolls in the rack until to-morrow 
morning. Unroll and at the same time fold them 
(if they are f goods), then roll them upon a 
board and place on the table, putting all of the 
same style together. Unroll the ends about 
a yard, and lay them over the end of the pieces 
in layers or folds. Then place the original 
sample on them and see how near they match, 
or shade. 

Shading with sample.— If buyers purchase a 
case of goods, they expect that every piece shall 
shade with the sample. They have no idea how 
difficult this is, neither do they care. If they 
have got a bargain, they will not often think or 
be so critical about the shade ; but this makes 
no difference. The manufacturer that can best 
please his customers is the one that will get 
along best. Now it is almost impossible to make 
every piece look alike, and the man that invented 



the cutting machine, where from one to a dozen 
thicknesses of cloth are cut at once, has done as 
much to cause unhappiness for the finishers as 
the dull trade has. 

But we must do something to remedy this 
trouble. A, B and C each want 10 pieces of a 
certain style. We shade the pieces with the 
original, and find that they are not all alike ; that 
perhaps six pieces shade all right, but two are 
off shade, but not very bad. We will cut off 
a sample from one of the two and mark it -^ 
(one-tenth) or thus, " Style 748 1 ." Next morn- 
ing when we shade up this style we may find 
some of each, that is, of 748 and 748 1 . Perhaps 
another piece may come along that does not 
shade with either sample. We then should have 
to call it 748 2 , cutting a sample off as before. 
Now, if A gets 10 pieces of 748 1 , he will not 
usually find much fault; but if he gets some of 
each, he has reason to complain. In a lot of 30 
pieces, there would not likely be more than two 
or three shades at the most ; and when a cus- 
tomer wants 5 or 6 pieces, there should not be 
much trouble in giving them to him all alike by 
this system. 

I have been successful with it, and never 
have had any serious claims for not shading 
together. I also know of many others who fol- 
low it. 

82 



After shading, box and invoice if packed 
endwise. If laid down flat in the box, it will be 
necessary to invoice first. 

Finishing-room book.— It is very essential to 
keep an account book, or what we term the 



tog 

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83 



" finishing-foom book," one which covers the 
weaving account as well as the finishing. I will 
give a form of a very simple and convenient book. 
The numbers of the pieces are put on in the 
weave-room, and the same are used for the 
finishing-room on the tickets. 

They may not come along in rotation, but 
can be filled in as fast as they are measured up. 
We shall be able to tell at a glance whether we 
have a piece of a new lot of yarn ; whether the 
imperfections have been discovered in the weave- 
room ; how they hold out for length, etc. 



84 



CHAPTER IX. 
WHY GOODS DO NOT FINISH ALIKE. 

Variations in the filling— Oils used upon the 
stock— Twist in the yarns— Wrong shades in 
the dye-house — differences in fulling varia- 
TIONS IN THE GIGGING AND SHEARING. 

Differences in finish.— There are so many rea- 
sons why woolen goods do not finish alike, and 
look alike when finished, even when they are 
of precisely the same style, that it is almost 
impossible, at times, to tell just what the trouble 
is. There is likely to be less difficulty on black, 
or even fancy, worsted than on fancy cassimeres, 
as the former do not have to go through so long 
a process in finishing. At least, they escape the 
fulling mills, which do more to change a piece 
of cassimere than any other machinery in the 
room. 

In the finishing-room.— Usually, the first place 
in which to look after any trouble of this kind is 
the finishing-room. Those that have an over- 
sight of the work before it gets to this depart- 
ment, are generally positive that they have made 
forty or fifty pieces so exactly alike that there 
can be no difference in the stock, or in the way 
in which they are woven. Stop for a moment, 

85 



and see how easy it is to have two lots of filling 
— especially black, and of the same stock — vary, 
for some reason, a quarter or half a run in size. 
We are in a hurry for this particular style. It 
is ordered into the goods. (I have known this 
to happen.) When finished they do not look 
alike. At the same time, the finisher cannot tell 
why this is so. How often does the superintend- 
ent tell him what it is that makes the trouble ! 
He may not be to blame ; but, at the same time, 
these little vexations are a source of much 
inconvenience. 

A supposed case. — Without any doubt, seven 
times out of ten the trouble of ''off shades " is 
caused in the finishing-room. But we will first 
go outside of this department and see if we can 
find any difficulties that may have a bearing on 
the case. We will take good, clean, all-wool 
stock and make a hundred pieces, or thirty-two 
hundred yards, of a certain style. Fifty of these 
must be put through the works immediately, to 
fill early orders. The others we can put in a 
month or two later, inasmuch as we have other 
styles to fill in with, to keep the works moving. 
We are " driven up," and it is impossible to 
color and card the whole lot at once ; or, even if 
colored, the stock for the fifty pieces may lie 
around quite a length of time. 

Now, there is one trouble that may arise 
86 



from this. If the filling is colored black, and 
not done properly, the longer it lies, the more 
tender it will get. I have seen nice, strong, clean 
wool, good staple, etc., after being colored and 
put in the stock-house two months, taken out as 
tender and soft as pulp. If this went immediately 
through the works, it would probably not be 
noticed. At the same time, it would be impos- 
sible to finish these two lots alike. They would 
not take the same gigging. If so, one must 
come out tender ; and this would never do. 

Oiled stock.— Then again, when the stock is 
oiled, and lies around, no matter whether in the 
yarns or any other condition, the goods do not 
work as well in the mill as those that have come 
directly through. 

I have known of tests being made of oils by 
putting through a small lot of stock or goods 
that would work first-rate. It would be adopted, 
and in six months the mill was completely bunged 
up. The cards were so badly gummed that it 
was impossible to get good work. The finisher 
had made numerous second-quality pieces, full 
of splits, unclean, uneven or cockly. All the 
finisher could do was to use an excessive alkali 
to cut this gummy substance, and this had a 
bad effect on the colors. Again, off shades 
were made. 

Variations in yarns. — Many times, when the 
87 



superintendent gives his orders for yarns to be 
spun a certain size, the spinner finds, with the 
stock which has been given him, an utter im- 
possibility to spin so fine. The result is heavier 
yarns. 

More or less twist in the yarns also has a 
bearing on the finishing. I have seen the same 
stock, sorted by the same sorter, but dyed, 
carded, spun and woven in different mills, then 
finished by the same finisher, and pieces from 
one would full two hours longer than the other 
(the same style at that). I have also seen stock 
taken from the same bin in the wool-room and 
treated as above. One mill would give perfectly 
strong cloth ; the other was as tender as paper 
pulp, dry, harsh and crispy. Would any one 
question why goods do not finish alike, with such 
difficulties as these ? There must be a fault 
somewhere. In this case, it was in coloring the 
wool. Sulphuric acid is all right in its place, 
but too much of it makes bad work. 

This covers the difference in workmen of 
different departments before the finishing. There- 
fore, it is not impossible that there be a difference 
under one man's management. Different card- 
ing and spinning machinery, tops and bottoms of 
the finishers in the card-room — all of these points 
have their bearing upon the results in the 



finishing. 



38 



Oils and oiling.— Oiling the stock for the cards, 
and the kind of oils used, are very essential 
matters. Care should be taken to use only 
the best. There is nothing saved, and many 
times is a great loss, by using a cheap or an in- 
ferior article. To illustrate this : I once had some 
fine all-wool cassimeres. I had my soaps all 
regulated on my selling samples, and was run- 
ning safely, or just strong enough to start the 
grease and still preserve my colors. Everything 
worked nicely in the mills for a month or two, 
when, all at once, I began to have cockly goods. 
They were uneven, and in places the grease did 
not start. The cockles were not confined to a 
single bobbin, but were perhaps from half a 
dozen to a dozen where the grease did not start. 
They did not look as though they were made in 
the weave-room. This trouble was at once placed 
in the finishing-room. As there had been no change 
whatever in the stock, I overcame the difficulty 
with strong soaps in the fulling mills, so as to 
start the hard places at once, that they might 
commence fulling and felting with the rest of 
the piece. 

After this had been accomplished, the super- 
intendent told me that they had bought a job- 
lot of oil alleged to be the same as that they had 
been using. Inasmuch as it could be bought 
20 per cent, cheaper, they considered it a bargain. 

89 



It was — to the man that sold to them. It was 
an inferior lot, and the result was that the yarns 
got mixed with new and old oil. One started 
well ; the other did not. Why did not these 
goods match the selling samples ? Why did they 
not finish like or with the goods that came around 
for the first month or two ? The superintendent 
could conscientiously say that the stock was the 
same, and that he was doing just as he had been 
at first, and that the fault must be in the finish- 
ing. At the same time, that did not help the 
matter any. 

The colors.— One more trouble which I wish 
to speak of before I commence to find fault with 
the finishing-room, is in regard to colors. How 
easy it is to get wrong shades from the dye- 
house ! I had taken particular care to get out a line 
of selling samples, and they were pronounced A 
No. i for design, fabric, finish and colors. Many 
of the styles w T ere ordered into the works, and 
all were coming out first-rate, matching or shad- 
ing with samples. I was positive just how long 
each and every piece fulled ; how strong both 
fulling and scouring soaps were; just how they 
were gigged and generally treated. All at once, 
one particular style came wrong. There was 
considerable green (of a dark shade) in the filling. 
It was all turned to a yellow. The finisher must 
be to blame this time. The superintendent was 

90 



positive that it was the same lot that the sample 
was made from. 

The dyer was positive that this same color, 
made in exactly the same way, was being used 
by numerous mills successfully. The agent and 
owners were convinced that it must be in the 
finishing ; and things began to look rather inter- 
esting for the finisher. There were four or five 
to one, and all as positive as he was that they 
were right. 

As soon as the goods were sheared, I in- 
spected them carefully over a perch, and after 
looking over several, I came across one in which 
the colors were all right for three or four yards 
on the end of the piece ; then a few yards were 
wrong ; then there would be a few bobbins right; 
then pick-and-pick alternately (the green was 
woven on two shuttles), and so on throughout the 
piece. 

This was the evidence I was looking for, 
but had hardly expected to find. The green in 
the goods was not made the same as that in the 
samples, and was not properly colored, or it 
never would have turned as it did with the 
treatment it received in the finishing. In fact, it 
was proved by getting another lot around claimed 
to be colored the same way, which came out all 
right with the same treatment. 

I have mentioned these facts to show that 

91 



even before the goods or stock have been started 
twenty-four hours, something may occur that has 
a bearing upon finishing them all alike ; and no 
matter how positive we are that everything is 
right and made exactly the same, we are liable 
to be mistaken. And little things will occur that 
have a very important bearing upon finishing 
forty or fifty pieces of cassimere so that they all 
finish alike, and shade alike when finished. 

Various causes of difference. — There are many 
times when a finisher thinks that he has every- 
thing all right, and sees no reason why every 
piece should not come out exactly alike, when in 
fact, by some negligence on the part of his help, 
they are not all being treated exactly alike, or 
near enough to look alike when finished. 

For instance, we will put two pieces in the 
fulling mills, one on each side. There may be 
two or three yards difference in the length. If 
the same amount of soap be used on each piece, 
the short one must have the most. If one piece 
is exceedingly wet, and the other just moist 
enough to full and felt properly, this must make 
a difference. Or if one fulls from a half hour to 
an hour longer than the other ; or if one is taken 
out 54 inches and the other 55^ inches width, 
even if both are stretched out the same on the dry- 
ing machine, there must be a difference. If one 
piece has the picks put in on the loom, and the 

92 



other in the fulling mill ; if there is more friction 
on one side of the mill than on the other, or if 
one side heats more than the other; or even 
take separate mills and let any of the above 
conditions occur, they are not being treated 
exactly alike, and there is a chance for variations 
in the shade. 

Changes in the soaps will, of course, have a 
very decided effect. A piece of goods fulled in 
a perfectly neutral soap, and one in a fair alkali, 
will not look alike. Leaving aside colors, they 
hardly look as though they were made from the 
same stock. The piece fulled in neutral will be 
firmer, more even on the face, and not so dry 
and crispy as the other. 

If one piece is light in weight, and has to be 
flocked, there is a difference. With the scour- 
ing, if one set runs 20 minutes, the other 30, 
they are not being treated alike. Or if one is 
washed with warm water, the other with cold, 
we are again running chances. Or a variation to 
any great extent in the rinsing with cold water 
will be noticed. 

Variations in the gigging by having the 
pieces too wet or too dry ; some sets done with 
old teasels, others with new or sharp ones in the 
cylinders, must have an effect later on. The 
same with the shearing. Any difference in the 
nap or length of it; whether cut evenly or 

93 



pulled out ; whether the revolver strikes hard on 
to the cloth, or the carriage is set high enough to 
escape this; a difference in the pressure, or heat 
or dry steaming when pressed — all have an im- 
portant part in regard to shades. But there 
should be no difference in the least, if the goods 
are made and finished exactly alike. 



94 



CHAPTER X. 

SOME PRACTICAL RECIPES AND TWO 

FORMULAS. 

TO FIND THE CONTENTS OF A TANK— To FIGURE SPEED— 
TO REMOVE BUR-DYE CROCK— To TEST WOOLEN 
GOODS. 

To find the contents of a tank.— To find the con- 
tents of soap, bur-dye or water tanks ; Multiply 
the diameter by the diameter in inches, then by 
the depth ; then multiply by .0034 ; the answer 
will be the number of gallons in the tank. 

Example. — Tank 50 inches in diameter and 
40 inches deep; 50 X 50 = 2500 X 40 = 100,000 
X .0034 = 340 gallons. 

Good specking ink can be made from the 
following: 

4 oz. soluble blue, 
1 oz. extract fustic, 
y 2 oz. oxalic acid, 
i^ oz. chrome, 
1 gallon water. 
Dissolve fustic ; add the acid, blue, and chrome ; 
boil until thoroughly dissolved ; stand 24 hours 
before using. 

To figure speed.— 1. Given speed of shaft, size 
95 



of driving pulley and size of driven pulley, to 
find speed of machine : 

Example. — Speed of shaft, 80 revolutions 
per minute; size of driving pulley, 10 inches; 
size of driven pulley, 8 inches; So X 10 = 800 
-f- 8 = 100, or speed of machine. 

2. Given speed of machine and size of driven 
pulley, and speed of shafting, to find required size 
of driving pulley : 

Example. — Speed of shaft, 100 revolutions; 
speed of machine, 175 ; driven pulley, 12 inches; 
175 X 12 = 2100-^100=21 inches, or size of 
driving pulley. 

3. Given speed of machine, size of driving 
pulley and driven pulley, to find speed of 
shafting : 

Example. — Speed of machine, 200 ; of 
driving pulley, 20 inches, and driven pulley, 
8 inches; 200 X 8 = 1600 -*- 20 = 80, or speed 
of shafting. 

To find circumference of pulleys, etc. : Mul- 
tiply the diameter by 3. 141 592. 

Example. — A pulley is 12 inches in diame- 
ter; what is the circumference? 12 X 3. 14 1592 
= 37.6991+. 

To remove bur-dye crock.— Sulphuric acid re- 
duced so it is just a trifle sour, will remove bur- 
dye. If it takes out too much color, rub lightly 
with ammonia. 

96 



To test woolen goods.— Take caustic potash, 
put in a small piece of goods, and let boil five or 
ten minutes ; rinse out well with cold water. The 
potash will eat the wool, and leave the cotton, 
wool being an animal substance. 



THE END. 



97 




IMPROVED WOOLEN SHEAR, 






(SEE OPPOSITE PAGE.) 

9 S 



Curtis & Marble, 

MANUFACTURERS OF 

Cloth Finishing &W00I Burring Machinery 

INCLUDING 

SHEARING MACHINES 

For Wool, Worsted and Cotton Coods, Plushes, Velvets, 
Carpets, Smyrna Rugs, etc. 

SINGEING, 

GIGGING, 

NAPPING, 

BRUSHING 

MACHINES. 

Cloth Winders and Measurers, Shear Grinders, Patent 
Reversible Flock Cutters, etc. 



SOLE MANUFACTURERS OF 



Gessner's Patent Rotary Cloth Press. 

Improved " Goddard " Burring Pickers. 

Steel Ring Burring Machines and Feed Rolls for Wool Cards. 

Spur Tooth Pickers, Shake Willows, etc. 

Particular attention paid to Repairing and Grinding Shear 

Blades and Bur Cylinders. 



SEND FOR ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. 

WEBSTER SQUARE, WORCESTER, MASS. 

(SEE OPPOSITE PAGE.) 

99 



NEW UNIVERSAL FULLING MILL 




Designed and constructed on the latest and most approved plans. Adapted to Felting 
and Flocking all kinds of Woolen Goods. Contains points of special merit found in no 
other. Has only to be seen to be appreciated. Before buying examine ou.'S Send for 
Circulars, Prices, etc., to the Sole Manufacturers, 

A, HOPKINS &CO., 

PASCOAG, R. I. 

Providence Office, 48 Exchange Place. 

IOO 



HOPKINS' IMPROVED CLOTH WASHER. 

Patented March 17, 1874. Improved 1885. 
HAS NO EQUAL FOR THOROUGH AND RAPID WASHING. 



!§ 

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HOPKINS & CO., - - - - PASCOAG 

PROVIDENCE OFFICE, 48 Exchange Place 



IOI 



THE ILLUSTRATION REPRESENTS 



J. E. WINDLE'S 

New and Improved 

Cloth Folding and Rolling Machine 



OF 1886. 




TT7HIS machine has all the requirements necessary for doubling and rolling all kinds and 
I classes of both Cotton and Woolen Goods in a most satisfactory and thorough manner. 

It will fold the goods more evenly than any other machine, and requires very little 
attention in operating. We guarantee perfect satisfaction in each and every case, and will 
place it upon its merits against any and all others. 

For further information address the Manufacturer, 



J. E. WINDLE, Worcester, Mass. 



I02 



The Heathcote 

Improved Tentering v Drying 

Machine. 

These machines have been greatly improved within 
the last six months, and will recommend themselves to manu- 
facturers who intend furnishing their mills with improved 
machinery for Tentering and Drying Purposes. They have 
been arranged so as to take up much less room in height 
than formerly, and have an entire new heating apparatus, 
by which the drying is largely increased, and will guarantee 
perfect satisfaction in every particular. We build various 
sizes, and they are adapted to all kinds of woolen or worsted 
goods. It takes less room, less power and steam than any 
other machine in the market. 



JOHN HEATHCOTE, 

SOLE MANUFACTURER, 

PROVIDENCE, R. I 

Send for Circular. 

103 




io4 



KINYON'S FULLING MILL, 

With Rubber-coated Rolls. 

Fulls rapidly, and will not damage the goods. 




Manufactured by 



KINYON BROS., 



RARITAN, N. J. 

Central R. R. Division of Philadelphia and Reading R. R. 

105 



JAMES FOLEY & CO., 

Manufacturers and Dealers in 

Textile Soaps, 
Wool-Scours, 

Chemicals, etc. 

For the Uses of Manufacturers of 

Woolen, Worsted, Silk and 
Cotton Goods, 

127 MILK STREET, BOSTON, MASS. 



An experience of over twenty years with mill soaps in the 
mills of New England, is a sufficient guarantee of our 
ability to answer any questions that may arise 
on the use of soaps under varying condi- 
tions. Address as above. 



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This is the only 

Shearing 

Machine 

with 

Self-Operating 

List Savers 

made. 




PARKS & W00LS0N MACHINE CO., 

SPRINGFIELD, VERMONT, 



MANUFACTURERS OF 



Cloth Finishing Machinery 

OF EVERY DESCRIPTION. 




Send for Circular. 

C. E. RICHARDSON, Treasurer, 

A. WOOLSON, President. 
ADNA BROWN, Gen'l Superintendent. 



Ill 



MEASURING 

AND 

Inspecting Machine. 





Measuring Machine that cannot measure wrong and 
needs no care or adjustment, 

Doubling and Rolling-up 
Machine 

For Both Cotton and Woolen Finishing. 

Tillinghast Sewing Machine I Supply Co. 

PROVIDENCE, R. I., 

Dealers in 

Factory Sewing Machines, Factory Twines 
And Sewing Threads t 

AND 

Special Machinery for Cotton & Woolen Mills- 
Doubling and Rolling-up Machine by which a boy- 
can do the work of four men, and ioo per cent, 
better than it is possible to do it by hand. 




H3 



CONNOR BROTHERS, 

Holyoke, Mass. 



Manufacturers of all Grades and Colors of 

Woolen Shoddies 

AND 

EXTRACTS. 



Stock Picked and Carded to Order. 



Also Manufacturers of all Grades of 

WOOLEN FLOCKS 



114 



THE BRIDESBURG 
MANUFACTURING CO. 

OFFICE, 201 CHESTNUT STREET, PHILADELPHIA. 



BUILDERS OF 



Cotton, Woolen and Worsted Machinery, 

CARDING, SPINNING, WEAVING, 

AND ALL OTHER MACHINERY USED IN COTTON, 
WOOLEN AND WORSTED MILLS. 



We respectfully invite attention to the recent improvements made by us 
upon all our Machinery, and especially to our 

POWER SAVING RING SPINNING, 

For Cotton and Worsted, the bobbins driven positively, spindles will 
run at any required velocity. 

SELF-ACTING MULES FOR WOOL, 

Bobbin Winders or Quillers, with spindles driven at variable speed, 
giving greater production and saving waste. 

LOOMS 

For Cotton, Jean and Worsted Goods, running two hundred picks per 
minute, and our recently improved and superior 

FULL LIFT AND FULL DROP BOX LOOMS, 

For Ginghams, Checks, as well as Broad Looms for Shawls, etc. 



STOCKTON BATES, President. CHAS. W. POTTS, Treasurer. 

JOHN ROMMEL, Jr., Vice-Pres. WILLIAM D. SHUBERT, Secretary. 

1 1.5 



Practice in Wool Carding. 



I.— Carding Fine Wools. 

2.— Difficulties in the Card Room, and how to 
Overcome Them. 

By JOSEPH BROWN, Master Carder. 



A complete, concise and helpful handbook for the card 
room, by a carder of more than forty years' experience. 

More than 2,000 copies of this little book have been 
sold since its recent announcement. 

Price, 50 cents ; five copies for $2.00. Sent post free 
upon remittance to 

THE TEXTILE RE CD RE, 

425 Walnut Street, Philadelphia. 



116 



$3.00 A YEAR. 

THE TEXTILE 
RECORD 

CONTAINS MORE ORIGINAL, PRACTICAL 
INFORMATION FOR ACTUAL WORKERS IN 
TEXTILES, THAN ANY OTHER JOURNAL IN 
THE WORLD. 



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THE TEXTILE RECORD IS WRITTEN FOR 
PRACTICAL MEN BY PRACTICAL MEN. 
SAMPLE COPIES UPON APPLICATION TO 

THE TEXTILE RECORD, 
425 Walnut Street, Philadelphia, Pa. 

117 



BROWN'S 
QUADRUPLE GIG. 




Having four applications of the cloth to the cylinder, with an 
attachment for cleaning the teasels without taking them off the 
cylinder. The slats are held on the cylinder in a way that enables 
them to be placed close together, increasing the capacity of the gig. 
This gig is a favorite with the finishers, doing more work than any 
other gig sold for the same money, and takes up but little room, 
which is desirable in many mills. 

PARKS & W00LS0N MACHINE CO., 

SPRINGFIELD, VERMONT. 

118 





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120 



Bleaching, Dyeing, Drying 

and 
Finishing Machinery. 

HUSK, PAPER AND COTTON ROLLS, 
CALENDERS, MANGLES. 



Dyeing md Drying Machines 

For Cotton, Woolen and Worsted Cloth 
and Chain Warps. 



DRYING MACHINES, 

TENTERING MACHINES, 

HYDRAULIC PRESSES, ETC. 



Granger 

Foundry and Machine 

Company, 

PROVIDENCE, RHODE ISLAND. 



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